Recollections From London RAW

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The annual RAW natural wine fair, held in London’s East End each May, is quickly turning into a force of nature. This year, over 4,000 people attended the two day tasting event, showing that interest in organic, biodynamic and natural wines continues to build among mainstream wine aficionados.

To show at RAW, winemakers must meet several criteria: being certified organic or biodynamic, hand harvesting their grapes, not adding yeast except in secondary fermentation for sparkling wines, avoiding any heavy manipulation and keeping added sulfur levels below 70 mg/L. Plenty of highly regarded names were represented — Movia, Radikon, Champagne Larmandier-Bernier, Frank Cornelissen, Coturri, Eric Texier and Cascina degli Ulivi, along with a bevy of producers, mainly from Europe.

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While I did retaste many favorites such as Lunar from Movia and some great 2008 Radikons (Ribolla, Oslavje and Jakot), a few regions and wineries did stand out. Several wineries showed well from Emilia Romagna, including Podere Pradarolo, Cinque Campe and Casé, putting the spotlight on this lesser known region as one to watch. An innovative winery from Slovakia, Strekov 1075, specializes in skin contact — its standout was Nigori, a cloudy Welschriesling named for a style of sake. Equally surprising was the first Polish wine I’d ever tried — my wife is Polish so we’ve long been on the hunt for Polish wine — from Dom Bliskowice, a young winery from Wisla in southern Poland. Their collection of 2012 and 2013 Rieslings showed some potential and we’ll keep our eyes on them.

Famed producer Emidio Pepe, from Abruzzo, presented six wines ranging from 2012 all the way back to 1983. Known for their reds, the 2012 Pecorino Colli Aprutini IGT started off the tasting and showed very well. Then it was on to the reds, with the star, of course, being the 1983 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a full-bodied wine, a bit bloody with olive notes, mature but still showing great vibrancy. Truly stunning.

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Another winery, little known outside its region and not yet distributed in the US, Laurent Bannwarth from Alsace impressed as well. Highlights included a very good 2013 Riesling Coeu de Bild, a minerally 2013 Gewurtztraminer and a rich 2009 Pinot Gris “Patience.” Each wine showed deep dedication to tradition and none had added sulfites. US distributors should jump on this winery.

In London, RAW is held at the Old Truman Brewery in the East End, which allowed for a large open tasting room and fairly good traffic flow. While there were a few challenges with the space. It gets extremely warm, bathrooms are in short supply, and spit buckets are not on the tables — awkward cardboard receptacles in the middle of the aisle encouraging more drinking than tasting. Overall the venue handled the crowds well.

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While I did hear a few people approach tables asking for orange wines as if they were trinkets to be collected, the crowd struck me as extremely engaged and that bodes well for the continuing growth of natural wines worldwide. On to Germany for the first RAW Berlin on November 29.
More info on RAW events can be found at www.rawfair.com.


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