Oliver Cousin in LA Times

This is from the other week – a story in the LA Times about Olivier Cousin and his battles with the AOC:

Cousin is fighting a raft of battles: Against the system. Against chemicals. Modern technology. Money, as in, the need for it. And against the idea of putting sugar and other additives in wine.

More concretely, he is in a legal battle with the French authorities who regulate winemaking. Although the issue appears to be about wine labeling, it really is about terroir, the land, or the identity it gives to fruit, as well as its people.

In an industry and a country that fears losing itself to the spread of globalized sameness, Cousin is part of an increasingly popular, often rebellious movement of \”natural\” winemakers.

\”Making wine this way is the story of humanity,\” Cousin says. \”You have to defend it. Otherwise, you might as well make wine on a computer. And in 50 years, if we continue making industrial wine, it won\’t interest anybody.

Full story at the LA Times.


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