Alice Feiring on the AOC

Alice Feiring thinks it\’s time for another French Revolution:

Too many people who worked well and naturally, who made wines that weren\’t flawed but that weren\’t textbook, were not being granted the right to put AOC whatever on their label. The system that used to protect real wines had reversed itself. It was a system that had started to eat its own.

With increasing frequency, wines that were naturally made, with no additions, coming from quality terroir, worked tenderly are denied appellation. In fact, looking over my wine shelves, these are mostly what I drink.

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