Be Wary at the Natural Wine Fair – The Guardian

From Victoria Moore at The Guaridan:

Sounds good, no? Well, it can be amazing. Some of the wines I have enjoyed most would be categorised as natural wines; they taste alive and honest, like a lungful of country air versus the stale aeroplane-cabin air of a poor brand.

But there is a catch. Natural wines tend to be very unstable. They don’t always survive transportation and storage. Even worse, just because a wine is natural doesn’t mean it’s delicious. This would be fine if natural wine proponents didn’t tend to be driven to claim otherwise. I’ve blind-tasted natural wines that smelt so funky that the “naturalness” overwhelmed the grape variety and the sense of place; others taste more like cider (fine, unless you’re paying £20 a bottle, in which case cider looks a better buy).

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