Natural Wine: Is It a Friend, Foe or Fabrication? | Catavino

Guest post by Fabio Bartolomei at Catavino:

But this has nothing to with the real meaning of ‘quality’. In the case of natural wine, this means that the grapes used have to be healthy and harvested at the correct point in time. Industry can’t so that! Industry has to harvest millions of tons, either mechanically or with immigrant (slave) labour, neither of which can ensure that only healthy and perfectly ripe grapes are picked. Secondly, the land on which the vines grow also has to be healthy and living and full of micro-life and macro-life, creating a living, complex, structured soil and biodiversity. Industry doesn’t do that; it does the opposite; it creates a chemical wasteland, a dead lifeless soil; it becomes unstructured and eventually gets eroded; the chemicals used are dangerous to workers, kills micro-organisms and wildlife, and pollutes the groundwater. Vines living under these conditions are not healthy, and the must produced by their grapes is unbalanced and distorted (even if it complies with legal and commercial criteria).

No legislation exists that covers real quality; the only form of so-called ‘quality’ control refers exclusively to commercial aspects, such as planting density, permitted number of clusters per vine, etc.

Natural Wine: Is It a Friend, Foe or Fabrication? | Catavino.


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