Quivira Vineyards and Winery Produces Bold, Biodynamic Wines

\"\"The Quivira property exudes a low-key ambience and an unpretentious approach to the often mystical tenets of biodynamic viticulture. Farmed biodynamically since 2002, the Sonoma property was purchased by Pete and Terri Kight in 2006. Steven Canter, a passionate proponent of biodynamics, was swiftly enlisted to head-up the winemaking program.

With Canter there is no division between vineyard management and winemaking. His process relies on fostering unadulterated, well-balanced varietal characteristics in the grapes that can support his minimalist approach in the cellar.

The four vineyards of Quivira Estate are governed by a diversity of microclimates; from the riparian Wine Creek Ranch where Rhone varietals thrive, to the undulating ridge-top Anderson Ranch that grows a complex blend of Zinfandel. Each block of vines has their own specific combination of training and trellising. With certain varieties, namely the Zinfandel and Grenache, the degree of hands-on crop management the vines receive is impressive, if not staggering.

Throughout the vinification process, the wines at Quivera are ushered through their transformation with an almost spiritual reverence. Hand-crushing, leading to the onset of wild fermentation, is done in shallow stainless steel bins where phenolic extraction is achieved by hand stirring. Canter compares his method to infusing a tea bag in water. New oak is used sparingly when a touch of spice is needed to balance the natural qualities in a given varietal, and to ensure ageability in the wines.

\"\"The 2009 Quivira Fig Tree Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc is a bold and intriguing expression of this chameleon-like varietal. The wine is aged on it’s indigenous yeast lees for 6 months. Its creamy pale straw complexion is attractive and its delicate aroma reminds me of key lime pie. It has a hint of floral sweetness with an unmistakable citrus pop. This delicate first impression belies the lip-smacking intensity of a highly ripened Granny Smith apple, or perhaps a zesty lemon verbena sorbet on the palette accompanied by enough mouthfeel to hold up its rather complex tartness. The unmistakably earthy finish evokes crunchy fall leaves and balances out nicely.

At just over 14% alcohol, this wine would surely hold up to any crustacean, no matter how devilishly rich its accoutrement, but it may be a bit too hot for my personal favorite Sauvignon Blanc pairing – porch sitting.

\"\"The yin to the Fig Tree Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc’s yang would be their Wine Creek Ranch Petite Sirah. Canter has achieved a restrained wine from a varietal that he describes as normally “the biggest kid on the block”. While its deep garnet color is dense and leggy, the tannic structure is delicate enough to describe it as a medium-bodied red. Leathery dried cherry notes on the nose are rich and inviting without being overpowering, and follows through with a deep grapey-ness on the pallette that reminds me more of forest fruits than juicy prunes. The finish is solid and consistent, retaining its dark fruit character with freshness and a nice level of acidity. Canter envisions a pairing of Moroccan spiced lamb, which sounds like a fabulous idea, especially with a little apricot chutney on the side.

Visit Quivira Vineyards and Winery online.


One response to “Quivira Vineyards and Winery Produces Bold, Biodynamic Wines”

  1. We are huge fans of Quivira.
    Lovely nuanced wines.

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