Serves: 6-8
Prep time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 25 minutes

• 2 cups farro
• 1 bunch asparagus (about 1 pound), tough ends cut off
• 1/4 medium red onion, thinly sliced
• 3 medium yellow beets (about 1 pound without greens), roasted, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice*
• 1 cup freshly grated Bianco Sardo cheese (about 1 ounce)
• 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice (1 1/2 - 2 lemons)
• 1 plump garlic clove, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

1. In a large bowl, cover the farro with cold water and soak for 25 minutes. Drain, then place in a medium pot and cover with 2 inches of water. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, 25 minutes, skimming any foam from the surface. Drain and rinse with cold water. Transfer to a large bowl.
2. Meanwhile, prepare the asparagus. Fill a large bowl with ice water. Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Add the asparagus and cook 2-3 minutes, or until vibrant green and crisp tender. Transfer to the ice bath. Once cool, remove (reserving the water) and pat dry. Add the onions to the ice water and soak for 10 minutes.
3. Slice the asparagus into 1/2-inch pieces and fold them into the farro, along with the red onions, beets and cheese.
4. In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, garlic, salt and pepper. Drizzle in the extra virgin olive oil while whisking. Pour the dressing over the farro salad and toss well. Preferably, let the salad sit covered at room temperature for 30 minutes or up to 2 hours to let the flavors meld. Do Ahead: The farro, beets, asparagus and dressing can be prepared the day before and stored separately (covered) in the refrigerator. The entire salad can also be made the day before and refrigerated, although the asparagus will darken. Bring to room temperature before serving.

*To roast beets, place the cleaned beets (green stems removed) in a small oven-safe dish and drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; cover tightly with aluminum foil and roast in a 400˚ F oven for about 1 – 1 1/2 hours, or until tender when pierced with a paring knife. Cool, then peel.

Casting herself as heroine, Feiring begins The Battle for Wine and Love or How I Saved the World from Parkerization attempting to “return the vineyards of the world to those who know how to work them.” Her journey becomes Apocalypse Now, seeing vineyard insanity in country after country as she heads up river towards an inevitable showdown with Kurtz, er, Robert Parker, the madman who created the 100-point rating system and whose loyal troops, er, wineries now make wines solely for his palate: “jammy fruit bombs, all vanilla-almond crunched up, often tampered with, and styled by technology and chemistry.”

Her experience in Spain exemplifies the overall problem she also finds in France and Italy. A tasting in Madrid reveals no white Riojas, but tons of new Chardonnays; a grape she feels should not be even grown in Spain.

Students returning from wine school used the new techniques that they believe were superior to their grandfathers’. Winemakers who didn’t trust themselves hired wine consultants to measure the chemistry of a wine. Retired CEOs hired consultants to create status-symbol wines. Winemakers wanted Parker’s attention – and there went the neighborhood.

So what can be done about Darth Vader and the Attack of the Clones? Feiring admits Parker may be a reluctant villain, entitled to his own opinions and free to publish them. Is it his fault that he has the influence he does? No, but Feiring does want an admission from Bob that he has become something bigger than himself; and that this has not been good for the world of wines.

Parker has none of it. “There is no global palate,” he claims. “Myths about me get embellished, exaggerated. I have sixty-five thousand subscribers, but the Wine Spectator has what, four hundred thousand? You’re picking the wrong target here!”

In fact, Darth Vader seems a better analogy for wines than for Parker. Grapes with soul trapped inside machines that are manipulating them. So what is a wine lover to do? Feiring does list the holdouts in each country that make “real wines” and even an entire region, the Loire, which “Parker forgot to review” and thus escaped his influence.

Feiring peppers her travel stories with humorous observations about past loves, including Owl Man and Mr. Bow Tie. The real strength of her writing, though, is her ability to describe what she enjoys about wine and allow the reader see the world through her own palate. The Battle for Wine and Love is not a long list of wine reviews with a narrative thrown around them. It is an explanation of desire, which is quite the accomplishment on any subject.

Purchase The Battle for Wine and Love or How I Saved the World from Parkerization at the Organic Wine Journal Book Store.

In 1914, Tryfon Lolonis, an immigrant from Velherna, Greece, saw California’s Redwood Valley for the first time. He was immediately entranced by the stunning beauty and its striking similarities to his home in the Mediterranean. Tryfon did not hesitate to purchase a plot of land to build a home for his wife and future family. For the next ten years, Lolonis and his wife, Eugenia, slaved over the land, rearing the grapevines that they had planted in hopes of producing a great-quality wine. Their hard labor was rewarded with their first vintage in the 1920s.

Three decades later, their son Nick Lolonis, having completed studies of viticulture and enology at the University of California, Davis, convinced his father to consider organic farming, relinquishing the use of artificial chemicals. A massive amount of ladybugs were unleashed throughout the vineyard, in an effort to keep pests at bay. This became a Lolonis tradition and the future symbol for the winery.

The original vines planted by Tryfon Lolonis were safeguarded, and the vineyards passed down to each generation of the family, ending with the current owner, Petros Lolonis, grandson of Tryfon and Eugenia. It was in the 1980s that Petros, along with his brother, Ulysses, decided to establish the Lolonis Winery to label their product with the family name, finally pushing their wines into the limelight and earning them great recognition; since October of 2000, seven Lolonis wines have so far been awarded 90 points or higher by the Wine Spectator.

Despite the fact that none of the Lolonis labels state they are “organic,” the vineyards were the first in the state of California to be certified organically grown. As many people lean towards a healthier lifestyle, the term “organic” is in danger of being misused by marketers with suspect motives and methods. “Organic” should have a specific meaning and should not be thrown about loosely or taken advantage of the way that it has been over the past decade. Thankfully, there are producers like Lolonis that strive to provide high-quality organic products.

Mary Borden is a student at the Culinary Institute of America.

I have been keen on cast iron ever since my mom discovered my late grandfather’s skillet hidden away in her basement a couple of years ago. As polished as black onyx and as slick as turpentine, the pan beckons a chef like truffles lure a trained terrier. (The first time I saw the pan I uncontrollably blurted, “Can you please pass this down to me in your will?” Um, the wrong words to tell your perfectly healthy and vivacious mother.) Its ultra-smooth surface allows fish to glide in and out without worry, steaks sear to perfection, and cornbread has never had a better home.

On a recent trip out to visit me, my mom lugged with her two lustrous skillets that she had hunted down from her local antique stores (a hint, I’m sure, that my Grandpa’s pan won’t be coming to me for a long, long time). Not only that, but she had a pile of research about cast iron, and it appears that not all pans are created equal.

First of all, forget the new, pre-seasoned skillets that are now available at kitchen stores; they have a rough, mottled surface that is not nearly as effective as the smooth shell of the old models. Search out early-to-mid century Griswold or Wagner brands—they’re considered the best quality—at second-hand stores, tag sales, or on the Internet. (The Griswold Manufacturing Company of Erie, PA—which made various iron kitchen tools from 1865 to the 1950’s—is the most prized brand by collectors; The Wagner Manufacturing Company of Sydney, OH, bought the Griswold molds in 1957.)

Don’t let a bit of rust or grease buildup deter you—they can be removed without too much strain (and often make for cheaper prices). For small rust stains, use sandpaper to remove the spot then re-season the pan (see seasoning tips below). For larger stains, soak the pan in a mixture of one pint of cider vinegar to three gallons of water for ten to twenty minutes. Rinse the pan with soapy water using a scouring pad. If the stain persists, return the pan to the soaking solution and repeat the process until the stain dissolves. For pans that are in really bad shape, try this tip from my mom, which she used on the pans that she bought for me: put the pan(s) on the middle rack of your oven facing down, and set the oven to its self-cleaning function. Once the oven is done cleaning, the pans (and your oven) will be sparkling.

But in the long run, you don’t want a sparkling pan; you want the black luster of a well-seasoned pan. While seasoning may sound like a pain, it is really quite simple. I promise. Rub your cleaned and dried skillet with a very thin, even layer of neutral oil—I recommend using extra-virgin coconut oil (it has an excellent heat threshold, won’t go rancid, and makes the most delicious curries, granola and pastry dough… but more on that at another time)—and pop it into a 350˚F oven for an hour. Let the pan cool in the oven then rub it with another thin layer of oil. Done.

Seasoning is an ongoing process; the more you use your cast iron skillet, the better surface you’ll acquire. Follow the maintenance tips below, and your pan will last a lifetime. Or several. The planet—and your grandchildren—will thank you for it.

• Never put cold water in a hot pan; it can crack.
• You can use a mild soap and a scrub brush to clean the pan without ruining the seasoning, contrary to popular belief.
• After cleaning, dry the pan right away, then rub it with oil. I like to then put the pan on a hot burner for a minute or two to help the oil absorb. Wipe out any excess.
• Store the pan either stacked with paper towels, or hanging on a rack.

The first school of its kind, Ecole du Vin et des Terroirs has been in the works since 2005 when the initial plans were formed. The origins of its inspiration, however, were much earlier. In 1991 Domaine Leflaive began experimenting with biodynamic farming, which initiated inquiries about its effectiveness and benefits. Rather than respond to every individual inquiry Ecole du Vin et des Terroirs provides a forum for biodynamic advocates to share their experiences with a broader audience.

Beginning in May, 2008 Ecole du Vin et des Terroirs will offer seminars ranging in duration from three hours to two days covering such broad subjects as wine making techniques, biodynamic farming methods, wine tasting, and botany. Each seminar is led by an expert in their field, including such luminaries as microbiologists Claude and Lydia Bourguignon, oenological revolutionary Bruno Quenioux, and terroir specialist Bruno Weiller.

Classes will be held throughout the year. The 2008 schedule currently includes seminars May through August. The seminars are divided into in French and English offerings. The seminars are limited to only 12 people, providing an intimate and personal experience, and take place predominantly in the vineyard.

Ecole du Vin et des Terroirs is a non-profit organization formed under the guidance of Anne-Claude Leflaive in collaboration with Michel Boss, Vinium; Pierre-Henri Gagey, Louis Jadot; Dominique Lafon, Domaine des Comtes Lafon; Jean-Marc Roulot, Domaine Roulot; Aubert de Villaine, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti; and Antoine Lepetit, Domaine Leflaive.

For more information or to attend Ecole du Vin et des Terroirs please visit www.ecolevinterroir.org.

We’re starting things off with our Red Selection; six certified organic wines from France, Italy, Spain, California, Chile and New Zealand.

• France: Domaine du Jas d’Esclans Rose
• Italy: Antica Enotria Sangiovese
• Spain: Can Vendrell Barrica Tinto
• California: Organic Vintners Merlot
• Chile: Nuevo Mundo Cabernet/Carmenere
• New Zealand: Holmes Pinot Noir

According to Paolo Bonetti, President of Organic Vintners, “this is a great way for people to dive in and experience great wines from a wide variety of places.” Jonathan Russo, publisher of the Organic Wine Journal echoed that sentiment. “These wines are affordable, taste fantastic and are good for you and the environment. What more could you want?”

Look for more OWJ Selections coming soon.

Click here to see the Red Selection at OrganicVintners.com.

Let us begin by observing the corpse of an animal that has just died. In a few weeks its simple elements will again be part of the earth. Thus the question to ask is: where are the energies which constructed this organism in such a sophisticated manner? Who took the calcium to sculpt the bone? Who took the silica to form the hair? Don’t these forces exist in other ways besides forming embryos?

A seed. An egg. Are they not simply receptacles of a perfectly organized world of energy which the forces of life give to Earth? Do they not exist independently of their link with matter through which they become visible? By asking these questions, we enter into the discovery of laws that are very real and concrete, but are no longer, so to speak, terrestrial laws. They are not subject to the force of gravity, to this world of weight and volume discovered by Newton. These are laws that can not be measured the same way.

In the third edition of my book Wine From Sky to Earth, I devote an entire chapter to the presentation of tests, and give images of this world of energies in wine and food and the manner in which different types of agriculture can modify them. The microscope does not have access to these realities. What must be understood is that human beings are only a sum of frequencies or rhythms. It’s a vibratory world. There is no life without frequencies and mini-frequencies.

Our society, and each one of us, use this vibratory world on a daily basis. Through satellites, portables, transmitters and microwaves. We use it to such an extent that it becomes a problem. This abundance of new frequencies disturb the frequencies which influence life itself. No one is surprised to hear the voice of someone thousands of miles away on their cellular phone. The call does not even use a thousandth of a gram of waves. Waves are not measured by weight.

In biodynamic agriculture, a few grams of preparations act as relays or catalysts of precise processes indispensable to the life of plant; a life which we have seen is not tangible. Those unaware of the energy world they use every day become offended. Think about how many grams of quartz make your watch work for over a year. So why shouldn’t a biodynamic preparation based on quartz accelerate photosynthesis, which generates the sugars, the colors and the aromas? Why wouldn’t the preparations destined for the earth accelerate mycorhiza; the linking of roots with earth?

Conventional agriculture inundates the vines and the soil with fungicides, herbicides and chemicals to prevent rot, spiders and other pests. Each treatment strangles, a little bit more, the link between the forces which influence our lives. I offer these observations for wine lovers concerned about the quality of wines you collect and cellar:

1. The use of chemical treatments reduces the capacity of vines to receive solar energy through their leaves, and earth energy through their roots. And there is no way to avoid this increasing. Each additional treatment to control disease will bring about collapse on a large scale, which will necessitate even more treatments.

For wine-growers caught in this dilemma, technology is the only way they can achieve the appearance of quality in their wines. Thus, their wines can be imitated in countries where labor is cheaper. In addition, the wine’s capacity to age properly is greatly diminished.

2. The so-called agriculture raisonnée would be satisfied with the 20% reduction of toxic chemicals. This does not constitute any real progress. The life-forces of the wine need to remain in good health to manifest its appellation. This explains why more and more wineries choose biodynamic as the only method which effectively links the vine to its environment.

3. By using this world of energies more directly, biodynamics increases the possibility for the vines to receive the characteristic of the appellation; providing the basis for what we love in a wine. Also thanks to its special relationship with the life-forces, two or three years of biodynamics can wipe out the harmful effects of herbicides. It takes biological agriculture several decades to reach the same goal.

This was proved in Australia. Land saturated with DDT had been forbidden for further cultivation by the government. However, after three years of biodynamics, it was able to be farmed again. Thus more and more serious wine-growers will continue to swell the ranks of biodynamics, even though attempts are made to ridicule it to preserve lucrative conventional markets.

To pretend that biodynamics is not effective is to be part of yesterday’s world. Unfortunately today’s world is just as alarming. The world of energies is an organized world that can be used either for good or bad. Biodynamics uses it without trying to modify it. Not everyone has the same scruples.

The cloth also meets Global Organic Textile Standards, which ensure that the product is organic throughout its production process — from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing and labeling. Lucky Crow bags are sold individually and in collections through the company’s Web site.

“Fabric wine bags are the perfect complement to organic wines,” says Ian Mahaney, who purchased Lucky Crow in June 2007. “The bags provide a hip alternative to wasteful wrap and add an extra touch of class to the gift.”

The company donates 1 percent of all sales to One Percent for the Planet, a global alliance of companies that donate at least 1 percent of their annual net revenues to a network of environmental organizations worldwide.

Lucky Crow gift bags are available for online purchase at www.LuckyCrow.com.

In her book Wild Wines she gives a complete guide to making wines from fruits, flowers, roots and leaves. Imagine a quaint afternoon on the porch sipping your own Mandrone Bark vintage.

Dawn Marie takes you through all the steps of winemaking, as well as how to locate and gather ingredients in the wild. The Organic Wine Journal spoke with her to learn more.

How did you get started making Wild Wines?

I always had an interest in outdoors and nature, and what you could prepare from what you could find. When I bought my first house I planted three grapevines and started making jams and jellies. I like to make products out of my own yard.

At a used book sale, I found this really old book on winemaking from England. I wanted to make wines as long as I can remember. They had a section on fruit wines, and when I found fruit outdoors I would think about their individual acidity and sweetness. After tasting I could see this one needed more acid or this one needs more of this. Over decades I’ve been perfecting each one.

My daughter always wants me to make dryer wines. My palate is more sweet. People have to go with their own taste buds.

How did you make the leap from fruits to leaves and plants?

When I lived in Chicago, we had a forest reserve with a 14-mile bike trail. I would go walking and when I saw a plant I had never seen before, I’d snip off a small sample or take a picture. Then I would try to identify it from an edible-plants book. Learn what parts are edible, and then wonder what else can I do with it? Can I dry it and make tea? Can I ferment it and make wine?

What’s your favorite recipe in the book?

Blackberry wine. For some reason it always takes on a second fermentation. I can’t pinpoint why. But it always becomes sparkling and fizzy. My second favorite is oak leaf. Very peculiar and oak trees grow everywhere around the country.

What’s the most unique?

Chickweed. It’s similar to lettuce, with smaller leaves. Very common in America. It makes a good-tasting wine with no lettuce overtones. I like it so much as a vegetable, though I seldom have enough bulk to make it into a wine. That’s how I’m always thinking. I like raspberry wine, but I like the jam better. So what do I have, and how do I want to make it?

Any wines that didn’t turn out well?

Blue Camas. My town was covered in them so I gave it a try. It has a sticky, gluey quality. It tasted good, but it was like sap. There was no good way to thin it out and keep the taste.

The worst-tasting one was Mountain Ash. Early colonists didn’t have much food and they used to eat them. It was in so many books I tried it. Very bitter berry. I can’t understand why people would eat it.

What’s the easiest wine for people to start making?

Blackberry. Easy to make, easy to collect in bulk, and it’s delicious. Any of the tea wines are good to start with too.

Do you ever buy wines from the store?

No I don’t. I love my wine and I make enough that even with giving them away as gifts, and my kids drinking more, I always have some around. I enjoy it in very small quantities and I can always make more.

Purchase Wild Wines: Creating Organic Wines from Nature’s Garden at Amazon.com.