Faust Spätlese Feinherb “Flagrantia” 2011

Posted by Organic Wine Journal on Oct 2, 2013 in Reviews

All the fruit, without the heavy sweetness people fear in Riesling – it’s the Faust Spätlese Feinherb “Flagrantia” 2011.

Cascina degli Ulivi Gavi 2012

Posted by Organic Wine Journal on Oct 1, 2013 in Reviews

This isn’t your grandmother’s Gavi. Here’s a wine that tastes like “autumn in a bottle.” It’s the Cascina degli Ulivi Gavi 2012.

Patrick Piuze Terroir de Chablis 2012

Posted by Organic Wine Journal on Sep 30, 2013 in Reviews

Patrick Piuze is a Chablis fanatic and this vintage has “crazy lemony ebullience” with the classic heft and elegance of a Chardonnay.

Domaine De La Pepiere Muscadet de Sevre et Maine sur Lie 2012

Posted by Organic Wine Journal on Sep 27, 2013 in Reviews

Perfect for fall weather and oysters, Victoria Levin reviews the Domaine De La Pepiere Muscadet de Sevre et Maine sur Lie 2012.

Francois Cazin Cour-Cheverny Cuvee Renaissance 2011

Posted by Organic Wine Journal on Sep 26, 2013 in Reviews

For her first review, Victoria Levin tackles the Francois Cazin Cour-Cheverny Cuvee Renaissance 2011. Find out why this “cidery” wine is the perfect sip for fall.

Victoria Levin Joins Organic Wine Journal

Posted by Organic Wine Journal on Sep 26, 2013 in Reviews

Hey organic wine fans – we’re back from our summer vacation and we have exciting news. Victoria Levin has joined the Organic Wine Journal team and will be doing regular wine reviews for the site. She helped launch The Tangled Vine on NYC’s Upper West Side and has been a frequent contributor for Eric Asimov’s New York Times wine column. She’s passionate about bringing the organic, biodynamic and natural wines she loves to a wider audience. Check for the first one later today.

Querciabella Turpino 2010

Posted by Paul Howard on Jul 29, 2013 in Reviews

Anyone that has even a passing acquaintance with Wine Alchemy knows of my love of the wines of Tuscany and in particular those from Chianti and the new lands of Bolgheri and the Maremma. Furthermore, my passione for the wines of the Querciabella estate seems to only increase with each new vintage. Organic since 1988 and biodynamic since 2000, owner Sebastiano Cossia Castaglioni has pursued quality and innovation relentlessly while continuing to expand his vineyards and cuvées; first at his 74 hectare estate in the heart of Chianti Classico and then developing 32 hectares in the Maremma, down on the unspoiled Etruscan Coast.

Querciabella’s range, comprising (in order of price); Chianti Classico, Mongrana, Bátar, Camartina and Palafreno have all become iconic, each with its own lustre.

This spring there was a new Super-Tuscan wine released into the Querciabella range: Turpino. Like Palafreno and Mongrana, the wine gets its name from an Italian epic poem. It neatly slots in next to Mongrana.

Turpino is a blend, of 40% Cabernet Franc with 40% Syrah and 20% Merlot. Not that unusual for a super-Tuscan these days perhaps. What I do find unusual is that it is a blend of regions. Fruit from the high altitude Chianti Classico vineyards brings cool elegance but this is combined in equal proportion with fruit from the warmer and plusher sea-level Maremma. While there is something almost heretical about this to the terroir-purist in me there is no doubting that adopting this approach has created an exciting and entrancing red wine, a heady blend of the traditional and the modern. This is fresh-thinking new-world Italian at its finest.

That combination of the traditional and the modern extends to how the wine is made, by winemaker Manfred Ing. Each grape variety is micro-vinified in oak fermenters using only natural yeasts and only the free-run juice is used. (What happens to the press wine is not known.) French barrels are used and only 20% of them are new so that the wine is not overtly marked by wood flavours or additional tannins. Cabernet Franc is given a tighter grained barrel given its more tannic characteristics. After sixteen months the blend is made, with another eight months integration in tank before bottling. 20,000 bottles have been made. As with all Querciabella wines, no animal products are used in production, so the wine is suitable for vegetarians and vegans. As an aside, biodynamic vineyard preparations usually involve cow-horns, but not here – a ceramic alternative has been developed.

Given this wine is at the early stages of a potential 20-25 year lifespan, it is youthful and not yet at peak – that must be 2-5 years away at least. So this is a wine to buy and keep for now. At this stage then, Turpino was given every encouragement to express itself; first it was decanted quite roughly and then left for a couple of hours and, following Sebastiano’s advice, ensuring it was warm in the glass at around 18°C. I then used a Riedel Pinot Noir glass so I could get a good swirl and release the aromatics. All that paid off handsomely!

This deep coloured red wine already has terrific aromatics and intensity. Red cherry and damson fruit scents are accompanied by an attractive pencil-shavings note (step forward Cab Franc). On the palate the fruit is at once seamless yet multilayered, with an attractive balsamic touch. There’s richness and elegance here rather than muscular power, a melange of fruit flavours balanced by fresh acidity and polished soft tannins. In that I was reminded of the wines made by Ridge in California (praise indeed), there is a new world feel but without excessive alcohol or lushness. That balsamic note lingers for some time on the finish if you let it. There are all the ingredients necessary for Turpino to improve further in bottle over time. I am always struck by the purity and sheer drinkability that Querciabella achieve, you almost have to force yourself to linger over each glass.

In short, Turpino is an excellent new addition to Querciabella’s fine range, bringing something new and different. Truly then a super super-Tuscan.

Given the sheer numbers of super-Tuscan wines created over the past few years is there really any more room for yet another? Yes, when it is as fine as this and from such a great estate. Where there are others clearly wearing the Emperor’s new clothes, Turpino is the real deal.

Beckmen Vineyards 2012 Purisima Mountain Vineyard Grenache Rosé

Posted by Emma Criswell on Jun 3, 2013 in Features, Reviews

Tom and Steve Beckman have been farming their Purisima Mountain Vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley biodynamically since 2006. Their 2012 Grenache Rosé is blended with small amounts of Syrah, Mouvèdre and Counoise and aged in neutral oak barrels (65%) and stainless steel (35%).

The wine has a nose of white flower petals, honeysuckle, melon and underripe raspberry. Also a nice hint of spice. The melon continues in the palate with red fruit and a creamy texture. Very enjoyable, though would prefer a longer finish. 1,200 cases were produced and the wine retails for $18.