How To Spit Wine

Posted by Lyle Fass on Apr 20, 2009 in Learn

Lyle Fass demonstrates the right and wrong way to spit your wine at a tasting. Remember, Lyle is a trained professional. Do not attempt this at home.

What Is Organic Wine?

Posted by Adam Morganstern on Mar 17, 2008 in Learn

Vineyard Practices

At its most basic level, organic wine is made from grapes that have been grown without the use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, fungicides and herbicides.

At The Winery

Winemaking techniques should be organic as well; little or no manipulation of wines by reverse osmosis, excessive filtration, or flavor additives (such as oak chips). Many organic winemakers also prefer wild yeasts for fermentation.

The Role Of Certification

When a label says “organic,” it means the wine has met certain standards that are set by a government agency. Different nations have their own certification criteria, so what’s organic in one country may not be so in another.

Many wineries that are technically organic still choose not to be certified. There are many reasons for this. Some do not want the added costs and bureaucracy of registering. Others may disagree with their government’s standards. It can also be a marketing decision. Whatever the case, they are not allowed to use “organic” on their labels.

Sulfites

The use of added sulfites is debated heavily within the organic winemaking community. Many vintners favor their use, in extremely small quantities, to help stabilize wines, while others frown on them completely.

In the United States, wines labeled “organic” cannot contain added sulfites. Wines that have added sulfites, but are otherwise organic, are labeled “wine made from organic grapes.”

Biodynamics

Biodynamic winemaking follows the teachings of Austrian anthroposophist Rudolph Steiner (1861-1925), and incorporates homeopathic treatments, as well as astronomical and astrological considerations, into the organic process.

Sustainable

Although there are no set standards, wineries that take the ecology of the vineyard into account, and try to minimize chemical treatments and energy use, are called sustainable. Some jokingly refer to themselves as “organic unless something goes wrong.” While we applaud all efforts to be more responsible, the Organic Wine Journal will not be focusing on sustainable wineries.

Everything You Wanted To Know About Sulfites (But Were Afraid To Ask)

Posted by Adam Morganstern on Mar 17, 2008 in Learn

Paul Chartrand of Chartrand Imports explains it all.

How can organic wines become more popular with the average wine drinker?

The whole sulfite issue has to be explained. Those of us in the industry have to choose whether we’re going to sell both types of wine, or one or the other. We have to explain what the advantages are of each, and identify which customers are likely to pick them.

Explain the basics of sulfites.

The earth has sulfur in it naturally, and so do many food products that come from the earth. Grapes are one of those, but so are oranges and eggs that come from chickens. Sulfites exist in our bodies naturally. It doesn’t affect anybody.

Centuries ago, people discovered that sulfur was a strong cleansing and antibacterial agent. It began to be used in cooking and storage containers. And it’s been used for a long time in winemaking as an additive to stop bacteria and oxidation. It also has the unique property of binding with oxygen molecules, so they don’t tend to oxidize the wine.

Bacteria and re-fermentation are handled technically now, but oxidation still exists as a danger to wine, particularly white. And sulfur dioxide is the most effective thing to stop it. There’s no other equivalent product that’s been found.

And if you make wine without added sulfur, it’s going to be more fragile. It will start to lose its aromas sooner, start to lose its color and eventually become muddy and cloudy. That can take years in some cases, but it can also take months.

If sulfur is naturally occurring, what’s the argument against it?

Because the sulfites that do any good must be added. The ones that are in the grapes naturally do nothing to help preserve the wine. They’re inconsequential. It’s sort of a coincidence that what happens to be in grapes naturally can be added to wine in a freer format to prevent oxidation.

It’s definitely not a dangerous substance. It’s not a carcinogen. It’s not highly toxic. It doesn’t stay in the earth for many years, potentially poisoning people. In small quantities it goes in and out of the body and doesn’t really do any harm; unless you happen to be allergic to it. That’s the whole thing. It’s an allergy issue.

Some people are allergic to peanuts.

It’s exactly on that level in my mind. There are people who disagree with me, but I think the majority of scientific opinion would be on my side. It’s an allergy issue.

It might be a wine quality issue too. If someone adds too much sulfur, it can affect the aroma and taste and cover up errors in winemaking. But, in small judicious quantities, a little sulfur can go a long way to helping the wine stay good longer.

The reason it became such a big issue in the U.S. was that large amounts of sulfur were being used on foods in the 1980s, and there were serious reactions to it. The government decided it needed to warn allergic people, and this was a peak time of consumer pressure on government to do these kinds of things. Some people want to be warned. But the great majority don’t need to be warned if the stuff is used cautiously, as it is in wine.

When you add sulfur in any form to wine, eventually it becomes a sulfite, because it combines with oxygen. But, often, when it’s added, it’s not technically a sulfite; it’s sulfur dioxide. It’s a more naturally existing form of sulfur. Therefore, it’s true; you put a label on wine that says it contains sulfites, but it’s not the same form of sulfites that’s added to many foods.

It’s one of the reasons why people in the organic industry misunderstood it. They think sulfites are like nitrides and nitrates; they’re really bad and shouldn’t be in any food that has the word organic on it. And when the original organic law was passed by Congress in 1990, that text was written in. People who drafted that law had no idea that sulfites were even in wine, or why they were in it. They just thought, “Well this makes sense. Nobody wants organic food with sulfites in it.”

They even resisted having wine labeled “made from organic grapes” for some years. They took a stance of absolutely no sulfites in anything that says organic. But we convinced them that there was a use in wine that wasn’t as dangerous or upsetting to people.

All that happened when the public was just becoming aware of organic wine as a niche market. Unfortunately, the two got so entwined and confused that most people still think organic wine means wines without sulfites, without even relating it to the agricultural aspects. That’s one of the biggest disappointments of that whole progression of thought. Because it just so happened that when organic wines came into the market the U.S. decided to make sulfite warnings required on all foods and wines, most people assume the two were connected, when they weren’t. That linkage led many people to not even think about grape growing as the important thing in organic wine.

How would you like to see organic wine regulations changed?

Sulfites shouldn’t be as big a division in the category. Both types should be called organic wine. Those without sulfites could clearly state that on their label, and those who add sulfites could state that on their label. I think of it as the difference between an organic pretzel with or without salt. Salt can be harmful to some people, but it’s not inherently dangerous to the earth or to living things in small amounts.

But that was long ago decided. That battle is not going to be refought. I’m comfortable with the division that there is now; although I think it’s made the perceptions harder for people.

Right now, there are some court cases that may put the whole organic food industry in that same footing. A recent federal court decision may end up forcing foods to be labeled “made from organic ingredients” instead of “organic” if they have any synthetic products added.

The way wine is now.

Exactly. Which I’d sort of like to see, because I’ve been living with it long enough (laughs). There are 34 synthetic ingredients allowed in processed organic food. They have to put it on the ingredient statement, but they can still say it’s “organic.” The dividing line is 95% or more organic ingredients, as long as nothing else in it is off that list.

The wine industry is sort of discriminated against because of the misunderstanding. Even though we have 99.9% organic ingredients, and the only non-organic ingredient is sulfur dioxide, all we can say is “made from organic grapes.” But tortilla chips that have various additives get away with this myth that they are more organic, when they’re not. It’s just that our ingredient was misunderstood more than theirs.

Visit Paul Chartrand’s website at www.chartrandimports.com.

How To Go To A Wine Store

Posted by Adam Morganstern on Mar 16, 2008 in Learn

Wine stores can be intimidating. Maybe James Bond can fall out of a plane, crash through a Monte Carlo restaurant and still amaze the waiter with his choice of the perfect Bordeaux. Not you. Walking into a wine store you see hundreds of bottles staring back at you, mocking your inexperience. There are twenty different countries, varietals you can’t pronounce, and you wouldn’t know what fish to serve with a German Albalonga if someone put a corkscrew to your head.

Well, relax. The wine store is there to impress you, not the other way around. You’re not supposed to know all the different labels. They are. Great bottles exist at every price range for all occasions. The key to finding them is to pick the right store, to develop a relationship with the staff and finally to learn more about your own personal taste.

Step One – Choose the Right Store

Given a choice, avoid stores that carry more liquor than wine, as well as those where you only see big-name brands and no smaller boutique wines. In your case, the more wine you don’t recognize the better.

The atmosphere of the store can be a good indicator of how carefully the wines are selected. Is the place well-lit and clean, or dark and dingy? If the place is excessively warm, then avoid it altogether.

Most important, are the salespeople friendly and communicative? Wine stores can play on your paranoia and your ego. None of us wants to get ripped off, but we also fear spending too little as well as spending too much. Good salespeople are attentive to what you’re looking for and respectful of your price range.

Step Two – Start a Relationship With the Staff

People used to know their local butcher and baker. Supermarkets have eliminated these traditions, but with wine it is still a necessity. You cannot buy wine like a regular grocery item.

The first thing a salesperson needs to know is what the wine is for. Are you looking for something to serve with tonight’s steak dinner, or a special gift that can age for a few years? Salespeople need your help to guide you to the right choice. Let them know any specifics, such as a wine you’ve enjoyed in the past, but don’t limit them otherwise. They may have a great red to go with your salmon dish if you’re willing to try it.

Keep an open mind about new countries and smaller wineries; take advantage of the time you’re living in. Don’t walk in with a magazine list of top ten wines expecting only to find them. Ask if their store has a specialty.

Be wary if you ask for a $15 bottle, and they show you one for $25 (but if the salesperson knows something perfect for $16, then give it a try). Also beware a wine they can’t tell you anything about and haven’t tried personally—and they can’t refer you to another salesperson who has. If you feel ignored and they reach for the most obvious bottle stacked high in the bargain bin, it’s time to try somewhere else.

Step Three – The Repeat Visit and Learning Your Own Taste

After you’ve tried your wine, the most important step is to return to the store and tell them what you thought. Let them know if it was a huge hit, but don’t be scared to say if it was a disappointment. Ask for the same salesperson and try to explain what worked or what didn’t. Taste in wine is very individual, and repeat visits can help determine which bottles are more likely to appeal to you. There may be a few mistakes along the way; that’s normal. If after a few visits you haven’t enjoyed anything, don’t be shy about asking to be helped by someone else.

Take advantage of tastings at stores; you’ll learn even more about your own preferences. Learn how to describe the qualities of something you enjoy, so you can get something similar, or how to avoid characteristics you don’t want in your next purchase. Many wines, while not being bad, may just not be your taste.

Organic and Biodynamic

If you’re interested in wines that are organic and biodynamic, you’ll be surprised to learn a lot of these wines don’t always put these terms on their labels. Some stores have a special section, though most have them mixed in with the others. Ask your salesperson which organic and biodynamic wines the store carries. It will keep salespeople on their toes to know more about their wines, and when it’s time for the store to order new selections they will know that customers are looking for them.