Your Guide to Organic, Biodynamic and Natural Wine



Domaine de Saint Pierre is a 6ha organic property with vineyards located in both Arbois and Cotes de Jura. The winery produces reds, whites and pet-nat created by owner and winemaker Fabrice Dodane. Savagnin de Voile 2008 is a bright and zippy white, mineral driven with medium acidity. Aromas of golden delicious apple skin, lime zest, hazelnuts and musk prepare you for more hazelnut on the palate, smoky oak, vanilla and orchid. A gorgeous expression of Arbois, and Jura in general.


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Château Pontet-Canet

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Importer Duclot la Vinicole recently hosted a vertical tasting of ten vintages of biodynamic Bordeaux prodcuer Château Pontet-Canet. The estate has been family-owned since 1959 with second-generation winemaker Alfred Tesseron at the helm. The property has 200 acres of vines and uses approximately a 50/50 split between new French oak and cement vats for aging.

The winery is also known for replacing mechanical engines with horses — about half the estate is farmed using horsepower, with a goal of 100% in the near future. "A horse never puts his foot in the same place,” says Tesseron. The family trains their vines into arches so the horses can pass through without harming them. The winery had their first green harvest in 1990, a fully biodynamic vineyard in 2005 and the entire winery was certified in 2010.

The vertical tasting included wines before and after the organic practices began. While subtle, the wines after the change have bright and fresh qualities that weren’t present prior.

The following three stood out in terms of balance and complexity of flavor:

Château Pontet-Canet Paulliac 2007

A very limited production wine, due to summer rot and humidity — it isn’t available outside of Pontet-Canet’s cellar. On the nose, there are notes of shaved dark chocolate and red currants. On the palate, the wine is lush with red currants and a lengthy finish.

Château Pontet-Canet Paulliac 2009

The deepest of the wines I tried, the nose is delicate and pretty with blackberries and prunes. On the palate the wine tastes spearmint, milk chocolate and more blackberries.

Château Pontet-Canet Paulliac 2010

My personal favorite of the group, 2010 is gorgeous, velvety, deep and bright. On the nose I found shortbread cookies, violets and strawberries. On the palate there are more strawberries, strawberry leaf, cassis and spices.

Website: pontet-canet.com


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“Everywhere.” That’s what the sales rep told me when I asked where their best organic wines were at the March 18th David Bowler portfolio tasting. Bowler is known for supporting organic and biodynamic wines, and recently acquired all of Nicolas Joly’s wines — so recently, that all they had to taste that day was three bottles leftover from the decision meeting. Lucky for me, I got there early and was able to try them.

Savenierres ‘Les Vieux Clos’ 2013 is extremely mineral driven with chalk and slate notes dominant, notes of apricot were also found on the palate with a zippy finish. Savenierres Close Coulée de Serrant 2013 is a completely different wine, bright and fresh on the nose with prominent notes of rich, tallegio cheese on the palate. Finally, Savenierres Close de la Coulée de Serrant 2012 is bright with lemon zest notes on the nose and a creamy, lengthy, almost Burgundian chardonnay finish. Pretty impressive.

Moving on, it was time to take advantage of the beginning of rosé season and try a few gorgeous examples. Bandol Rosé from Domaine de la Tour du Bon that was light, fresh and tasted of fresh peach juice and clementines. There’s a reason this wine is summer in a glass.

My favorite, by far, was Champagne Tarlant. The Tarlant family has been making Champagne since 1687 and the vineyards have been passed down from generation to generation ever since. Melanie Tarlant was behind the table during my visit and was as bubbly and fun as the Champagne. Not only did she promise to send me her t-shirt (which read “F**k Number 5, I love Champagne”) but also told me which of her grandmother’s favorite vineyards each wine came from.

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Two bubblies that stood out from this tasting were Champagne La Vigne d’Or Brut Nature 2003 that is made completely from Pinot Meunier and had a surprising creaminess. The other is a champagne Melanie says is made from the “forgotten grapes of Champagne: blanc, arbanne and meslier. The Tarlants call it BAM! The wine has bright acid, lemon and lime on the palate with lots of bubbles.


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Tarantas Monastrell

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Tarantas is a line of organic wines originally created by Bodegas Iranzo in Spain for distribution at Whole Foods in the United States in 2005. They’re still available there but it’s no longer an exclusive, so you can find them outside the chain as well. Their Monastrell (the Spanish name for Mourvèdre) comes from the Jumilla region, located in the southeastern part of the country and known for its limestone. It’s imported into America by Natural Merchants Selections, which focuses on organic and biodynamic wines.

The Tarantas Monastrell has a spicy, meaty nose with cedar and cumin. Very peppery palate with dark chocolate, violets and blueberry. Light tannins and a long finish. Smooth, but still young. We enjoyed it with a simple meaty pasta sauce

Tarantas Monastrell retails for around $12.


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Tom and Steve Beckman have been farming their Purisima Mountain Vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley biodynamically since 2006. Their 2012 Grenache Rosé is blended with small amounts of Syrah, Mouvèdre and Counoise and aged in neutral oak barrels (65%) and stainless steel (35%).

The wine has a nose of white flower petals, honeysuckle, melon and underripe raspberry. Also a nice hint of spice. The melon continues in the palate with red fruit and a creamy texture. Very enjoyable, though would prefer a longer finish. 1,200 cases were produced and the wine retails for $18.


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