Your Guide to Organic, Biodynamic and Natural Wine


No. 9 Park – Boston Organic Wine Scene

No. 9 Park

Winning James Beard awards for Outstanding Service and Outstanding Wine Program is impressive – winning them without an appointed sommelier is downright spectacular. How did Boston’s No. 9 Park restaurant accomplish this? Wine Director Cat Silirie attributes it to her professional credo: “Ten sommeliers are better than one.”

Silirie, Executive Wine Director and Wine Buyer for the Barbara Lynch Gruppo, leads two other directors, the self-proclaimed “Team Wine Super Heroes,” for No. 9 Park, as well as sister restaurants Menton, and The Butcher Shop. Weekly wine classes are held at each place with the goal of “making wine more approachable not only for ourselves but for our guests too.”

“It’s not this cult of personality of just one person who knows the entire wine list,“ says Kate Gilarde, who started as an intern 10 years ago and now helps shape the wine program. ”We have a team of people and they all love wine. Your decisions as a guest are based on what they can do to help you.”

The diverse wine list at No. 9 Park reflects the interests of the entire team. The cuisine inspires traditional French and Italian selections, but also represents other parts of Europe and the United States. “We have this fascination with Sherry, which is really spurred on by my colleague Melodie Reynolds,” says Gilarde, while tends to lean towards Burgundy. “It’s natural to have food that echoes something from the old world, and then to have wine that beautifully underscores it.”

The preference for traditional styles of production often leads to wineries that practice organic farming. “You can tell when a wine is made with care,“ says Gilarde. ”We’re trying not to over manipulate the wine with our own personality, and certainly organics and small production are a function of helping that shine through.”

While Gilarde says she does not consciously seek out organic wines, the majority of her wine list is organic. "More often than not, we’re trying a wine then say, ‘Oh, of course, it’s organic.’ Wow. Organic is more than just a label or category. It’s part of a bigger, richer story that inspires our appreciation for the quality.”

Gilarde, however, avoids marking the organic wines on the menu. "I seek quality first, and I believe when you start putting labels on a wine list, you’re automatically casting a shadow on others. We stand by all of the wines on our list for representing themselves well, whether they’re organic or biodynamic or not.”

Ultimately the hope is that the wine list at No. 9 Park contributes to the conversation about wine. Says Gilarde, “I think it’s such a wonderful way to learn, and that way we get to talk about wine together, we drink wine together. It’s a way to enjoy connecting with each other.”