I think the point of the natural wine movement is not in the wines it makes today, though like the original Velvet Underground songs, some of them are fragile tinctures of frightening pain and beauty. Rather, I think the natural wine movement today will be viewed in 2035 as Velvet Underground was viewed by 1990. Just about every good and talented winemaker will have been influenced by it. The story of wine in the 20th century was the story of the advance of technology, and this has been a tremendous boon for wine lovers. The fresh, fruit-driven wines of today simply would not exist without many of the technological advances that some natural winemakers shun. Most of today's wine is high-fi. But there's a tiny, unpopular undercurrent of low-fi, and one day it might prove more important than any wine that's selling stacks of cases in Costco.
So says The Gray Report: