From Do Bianchi:
A few days ago I received this email from [Alessandro] Bulzoni, an important Roman wine shop on Viale Parioli.
“I’m writing you to let you know about what happened to me last week: two agriculture ministry officials came [to my shop] to notify me that the sale of ‘Natural’ wines on my shelves was illegal. They wrote me up and they will be fining me. They might even charge me with a crime. The issue was advertising the sale of wines without certification.”