Right now, it's "natural" wines that are having their day, as more and more wine drinkers are not only interested in where a wine comes from but also in how it is made. One man has been touting "natural" much longer than most: Scott Pactor, proprietor of Appellation Wines. He opened his store on 10th Avenue almost seven years ago, long before most wine drinkers—or, for that matter, wine salesmen—knew the difference between wines that are biodynamic, organic or sustainably made. "When I started in 2005, a lot of wine salespeople didn't know which estates were biodynamic or organic. They would turn around and ask their importers, who would turn around and ask the winemakers themselves," recalled Mr. Pactor. Although the salespeople seem to know a lot more today, Mr. Pactor does have to ask certain questions to make sure the wine is really made in the manner it is claimed to be. "We ask if they are certified or if they are part of the natural wine trade organizations," he said.
Lettie Teague did a profile of Scott Pactor and Appellation Wines in The Wall Street Journal.