Nice write-up of organic sommelier Jean-Charles Botte on Christian Callec's website:
His struggle is a fanatic one; he is going much further than organic (bio) or biodynamic wines, he insists on the essential use of indigenous yeasts for real, terroir driven wines. During his time as waiter/sommelier assistant, he was wondering why all white Burgundy wines were always so similar. He found the answer to his question much later, thanks to a meeting with the famous French wine grower Claude Courtois: “White Bourgogne wines are so similar because they are all made with industrial yeasts selected in labs”. This changed JCB’s life; he realized that all the wines he really likes are all made from well managed vineyards with low yields and using natural, indigenous, wild ferments.
Full story at