Your Guide to Organic, Biodynamic and Natural Wine
Can having an army background help you review wines? We’re not sure but we think Lyle has fallen in love. Hear what he has to say about the Binner Muscat Hinterburg 2002.
Morgan Harris, who writes the wine blog Technically Drinking and works at The Tangled Vine in NYC, offered this contribution to Saignée’s 32 Days of Natural Wine:
As someone who works in a wine bar, I sell wine on a bottle-by-bottle, glass-by-glass basis, not by the case or by the truckload. Not that there’s anything wrong with wine at that scale; I just mean to suggest that I have a very intimate relationship to the end-consumer in the wine-distribution chain. The wine I sell is appreciated in front of me, and I’m often privy to people’s thoughts and curiosities about wine. Hundreds of members of the general public sit down at my bar every week and drink thousands of (different) glasses of wine.
Sometimes, in all my enthusiasm for wine, I have to remind myself that not everyone’s interested in how many grams residual sugar versus tartaric acid this Mosel Riesling has. I cannot interest people in many things I have to say about wine at more than a surface level. This is fine. I accept this, albeit sadly. Natural wine is the exception to this rule.
For the average consumer, tasting wine is a binary action. Is this delicious or not delicious? They don’t concern themselves with vine age, soil types, lees contact, barrel aging regimens or any of the stuff that us cork dorks get ourselves all in a tizzy about. For most people, wine is an alcoholic beverage that comes in red, white, pink, sparkling, dry, and sweet, and that’s about the level many people are interested. I can say with confidence that in the last two years of working wine bars in food-friendly Manhattan, sustainable, organic, and biodynamic wines are the most consistently interesting facets of wine to the average consumer. I would consider producers in all these categories to be pursuing some platonic ideal of natural wine.
We are back to square one with regards to a European organic wine certification. While it was hoped that this year organic winemakers will be able to label their wines organic, the negotiations over the acceptable levels of sulphur dioxide (SO2) use fell through, and the draft legislation was withdrawn. The reason behind it is the EU Commissions insistence on enforcing the same SO2 reduction (50 mg/l vs current country-specific limits) across all wine-producing countries, in spite of continuous resistance from the northern-most producers.
While it was recognized that SO2 restriction may be lifted in bad vintages, the commission kept pushing for a geographically uniform regulation. Why this obsessions with a single rule for all geographical regions? If it can be accepted that higher SO2 levels may be needed when the weather is not favorable, why not accept that in certain geographical areas the weather is not favorable most of the time?
This insistence on uniformity is surprising, considering that the problems the new legislation would pose to northern organic winemakers were flagged from the very beginning of the research and negotiation process. Already in the research report by ORWINE, submitted to the EU Commission, it was noted that all organic wine producers in Germany were against any limitation of SO2. The fear was that limiting SO2 in absence of alternatives could lead to a deterioration of sensorial qualities of organic wines, and a further loss of consumer confidence. Furthermore, ORWINE noted that reducing SO2 levels would have to result in trade-offs with other oenological practices for some winemakers; for example some may be constrained to use selected yeast strains, or control fermentation temperatures.
As shown by ORWINE tastings, using such techniques resulted in wines which tasted different to those obtained following usual protocols of organic winemakers which participated in the experiment. In other words, while SO2 limiting was found to be possible in organic wines, it could a) change their sensorial characteristics, as it would have to be coupled with a change in winemaking practices and b) was not accepted by organic winemakers in all countries, specifically those who practice organic viticulture in harsher climatic conditions, and whose grapes are therefore more prone to fungal and bacterial contaminations which can be counter-acted successfully only using SO2. These objections were, however, downplayed.
Further worries were clearly communicated by the members of IFOAM (International Foundation for Organic Agriculture). Throughout the legislation drafting processes the EU Commission was in correspondence with IFOAM, which in turn conducted internal consultations with its members and internal wine experts as well as the IFOAM EU Group board. From the outset the issue of SO2 reduction was the most controversial one for IFOAM members. In the position on the organic wine processing from 25th September 2009 IFOAM stated:
“The issue of sulfite reduction remains the most controversial for the organic sector and the discussion needs more time (some countries favors strong reduction of up to 50% while other countries are in favor of no reduction at all). We urge the EU Commission to recognize the sensitivity of the issue and to carefully consider the different options.”
IFOAM stressed that the proposed 50% reduction in SO2 levels (vs current country-specific levels) was not acceptable, as it would not allow organic wine production in all EU wine regions. In the IFOAM EU position paper of 28th October 2009 they reiterated this point, expressing a concern that “this [proposed reduction] would force organic wine producers out of business.” In a revised draft the EU Commission reduced the proposed SO2 limit to current country-specific limit minus 50 mg/l. This, however, continued to be unacceptable to German, Austrian and Dutch organic wine producers. In spite of this, the EU commission draft from April 2010 continued to require a 50 mg/l reduction, and suggested those producers who could not meet this standard continued using the ‘wine from organically made grapes’ label for the time being. This solution proved unacceptable to the IFOAM members, and finally on June 16th the EU Commissioner for Agriculture & Rural Development Dacian Ciolos withdrew the draft proposal to introduce rules for the production of organic wine.
The negotiations have now re-started, and organic winemakers still hope that in 2011 their wines will be able to carry the ‘Organic Wine’ label. It seems, however, that unless geographical differences between organic winemaking areas are seriously taken into consideration, 2011 will see a replay of the current scenario.
Julie Johnson of Tres Sabores discusses her Estate Zinfandel.
Perfect Pairings, A Master Sommelier’s Practical Advice for Partnering Wine with Food – Evan Goldstein
We were very impressed with Evan Goldstein’s latest offering, Daring Pairings, so we decided to take a look back at his first book. Perfect Pairings focuses on 12 of the most common wine varietals – so you can now find out which foods to match with your Cabernet Sauvignons and Rieslings. With less grapes to focus on, Goldstein is able to go more in depth about the variety of styles each varietal can be found in, and offers different recipes for them. You’d want to try the Pork Loin Glazed with Pomegranate and Orange with a ripe, fruit-forward Pinot Noir, but Lamb Shish Kebabs go better with a Pinot Noir that is more aged and developed.
All the recipes in the book are from his mom – but when your mom happens to be famed chef Joyce Goldstein that isn’t a bad thing. Having these two books in your collection will ensure you always have something to serve with whatever wine you’re drinking.
Purchase Perfect Pairings
100 Perfect Pairings, Small Plates To Enjoy With The Foods You Love – Jill Silverman Hough
With all these books on wine and food pairing, and with almost the same titles, how do you choose which one is right for you? Jill Silverman Hough’s 100 Perfect Pairings has the same down to earth style as Goldstein’s, she tells you in the first sentence the book isn’t meant for “wine and food geeks,” and she covers 11 of the same 12 grapes in his book [ if you like Sangiovese go with Goldstein, if you want to match food with a Rosé then hers is a better bet]. She also provides the basics for matching foods for each varietal, though Goldstein goes a little more in depth.
The main difference between them is that Hough’s book is more recipe oriented, while Goldstein’s is more wine focussed. Flipping through Goldstein’s book you’re more likely to choose the wine you want to learn about, then pick something to make with it. With Hough’s you’re going to find the dish you want to make first, then get the right wine. The food is perfect for small plates, and great to plan a wine party around, but can be expanded to make a full meal if you prefer. Your guests will rave over your Prosciutto-Wrapped Asparagus with Tarragon Aioli, served with a Sauvignon Blanc, and Chicken Sandwichettes with Raisin Jam and Pickled Onions, with a good Merlot.
Purchase 100 Perfect Pairings
The Sommelier Prep Course, An Introduction to the Wines, Beers and Spirits of the World – Michael Gibson
If you’re ready for the next step in your wine education, The Sommelier Prep Course may be what your looking for. Michael Gibson has been the lead instructor for wines and spirits at Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Scottsdale, Arizona for the past six years and wanted to write a textbook that could be used for intro classes. In that vein, the book covers the history and different aspects of winemaking, and the wine wine regions of the world, well enough to give you the solid fundamentals, but not exhaust you with information better left to more in-depth studies. It’s not for the casual reader, but if you’re thinking of becoming a sommelier, or just want to know what they do, this is a great way to start.
One small criticism: we would, of course, prefer more background on organic and biodynamic wines. Right now they rate a page worth of information, and what’s there is a little misleading. Organic wines can be manipulated in the winery the same way conventional wines can and still be labeled Organic.
Purchase The Sommelier Prep Course
Has Lyle met his match? He can’t even think straight after trying this Ploussard. It will puzzle you, frustrate you, but eventually satisfy you. It must be the Domain de la Tournelle Uva Arbosiana 2007.
Ted Lemon's estate in Sonoma. Photo by Shebnem Ince.
Nine months ago, I was asked to curate the wine list for Henri, the second Chicago restaurant for Billy Lawless, who also owns The Gage Restaurant, where I am the wine director. He wanted it to be more classic than the Gage, which is bustling and bar-focused. The interior of Henri had been one of architect Louis Henri Sullivan’s last Chicago commissions in 1902. This is the last of five buildings left standing of all the prolific work from this important figure in modern design. It deserves to have a distinctive wine list to match.
People have no problem with blighting and destroying, yet down the line when something reveals itself to be a treasure we mourn its loss. If only we had known, or had been able to divine its importance, maybe we could have saved it.
This is happening in the wine world. I have noticed a marked shift, in wine that started around 1982. The popularity of certain critics, globalization, and the financial sector’s sudden interest in the wine world all snowballed, bringing a new set of standards and expectations, based on color, taste, texture and ripeness. Whether a Shiraz from Australia, a Bordeaux, or a Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley, the wine world suddenly came awash with a uniformity of flavors, eschewing personality, complexity and that ‘t’ word that everyone talks about but is so elusive – terroir.
So, the decision to create an all biodynamic/organic list became easy and made sense. Shouldn’t the wine list represent the most authentic wines? To honor winemaking at its most challenging and ultimately its finest. To allow each wine to express its sense of place, just as Henri expressed a sense of place, with its ornate facade, ghostly reminders of eras gone by and serene beauty?
The Pitch:
Fortunately, I had a good track record with The Gage’s successful wine list, and I did not get too much resistance from my clients when I wanted an all biodynamic/organic list. About 70% of the Gage’s list fell under those parameters anyhow, I had unconsciously been buying wines like this for the three years we have been open. I downplayed the manure and horns, and focused on how such a list would distinguish us. I was given a green light.
The Parameters:
I told my vendors to start pulling all biodynamic, certified organic and sustainable wines. I quickly learned that the term sustainable farming was riddled with vagueness and, depending on whom you spoke, meant very little. A common definition of sustainability was allowing the use of round-up on the sides of the rows to contain weeds. And while I am sympathetic to the demands of farming and the thin margins upon which agriculture is built, that seemed like a cop-out to me. After much research, I decided to use the charter developed by Nicolas Joly. Anything termed sustainable had to fall in the ‘one star’ category as the quality chart proposed. That would be the baseline for all Henri’s wines. if wines were to fall in the two and three star category, even better.
The Challenges:
Not all biodynamic and organic wine is good wine. And I have tasted out many a bottle of gnarly, strangely oxidized and generally off “natural wines” to know that although the practices are ecologically laudable, the wine, in the end, must be delicious, balanced and sellable.
I went to Biodyvin, Summa Conference 10, Demeter USA, Ecocert and Demeter International and printed out page after page of producers who had been willing to make a stand about what went into their soils and how their wines were made. Many producers I recognized, and had no previous notion that they were a part of this alliance. I noticed too, that there were definitely ‘hot spots’ of biodynamics: the Loire Valley, Burgundy, Alsace, and Sonoma. But I needed to cull an eighty bottle list that offered more than these four areas could supply.
The Process:
Bit by bit I started to cobble the list together. My vendors started to dig into their books, many calling their importers or the winemakers themselves, for clarification and philosophic discourse. Many discussions about sustainability and la lutte rasionnee (the reasonable way) came up, as my perspective was not as ecological (great that you have a koi pond & sheep on the property – do you spray?) as it was philosophical. I became aware of more and more producers who were not certified organic but practicing organic/biodynamic methods, many of whom I saw as the true guardians of viticultural biodiversity. It is a well-established fact that synthetic applications are more damaging to low-vigor and heirloom vines, yet it is the inclusion of these older, lower yielding vines in the harvest selection that can add depth and character and a true sense of place to the end product – that bottle of wine sitting on your table. Had Domaine Romanee Conti not transitioned to organic practices 26 years ago, would their selection massale, the traditional way of propagating plants from old, pre-clonal stock, be at all possible now?
Findings:
In the late 1960′s, Maurice Combier of Domaine Combier had a severe allergic reaction to a phytosanitary product. He also noticed how the application of these synthetic preventatives and fertilizers were sublimating the personality and terroir of his vineyards in Crozes-Hermitage. He rapidly transitioned his 5 hectares of vineyards, as well as the 15 hectares of orchards to an organic regimen. The results in his mind, were tremendous, although for many years later he was known locally as crazy Maurice (Maurice Le Fou). It took nearly a decade to perfect their systems, but in the 1980′s the estate began to flourish and today the estate has expanded, remains organically farmed, and is very successful.
Ted Lemon of Littorai is an uncertified, but influential biodynamic producer in California’s north coast. One need only step foot on his other-worldy estate property in residential Sebastopol to know that something amazing and important is happening, right before your eyes. Fava bean stalks bend in the breeze, fixing nitrogen into the soil. Cover crops abound. Ladybugs hover in the air. Water lillies bloom in the water pond. The Haven Vineyard Pinot Noir ( I fell in love with 2006) from that estate is a profound expression of Pinot Noir, and something beyond words. It seems to hover between two worlds; ours and the ethereal world of imagination and abundant possibility.
The certification process can be tricky, and the eligibility requirements rigid, and sometimes arbitrary. I talked at length one afternoon with Joe Wagner of Belle Glos. He has farmed his Sonoma Coast Taylor Lane vineyard organically now for four years. Because the fence posts at the row ends were constructed of chemically treated wood, he was not eligible for certification. He questioned the ecological and financial implications that ripping out the fence posts would entail; in the end he decided to not certify. However, many other aspects of his viticultural approach made him eligible, in my mind, for placement on this list.
Conclusion:
This list required more research than any other project I have undertaken. But through the research I have learned massive amounts about farming, agriculture, and the thin line winemakers walk between commercial viability and upholding ecological philosophies that have the potential to financially devastate them. I think lastly, that it is those who take the largest risks ultimately make the greatest wines. That has been my experience anyway.
Henri, located at 18 S. Michigan in Chicago, will open in August 2010.
Pinot Gris is the second most important grape in Alsace. This wine goes down “soft as a pillow” but is there a little too much heat? Watch Lyle’s review of the Binner Pinot Gris 2005.
