Domaine Le Soula, Soula Rouge, Vin de Pays de Côtes Catalans 2005

Posted by Paul Howard on May 29, 2010 in Reviews

Le Soula was created in 2001 as a partnership between UK wine importers Richards Walford and local biodynamic superstar Gérard Gauby, who had found a number of old and abandoned vineyards with great potential. It now has 27 hectares of vines situated in the deep south of France in the Agly valley in and around the village of St. Martin de Fenouillet. The winery itself recently moved about 5 miles to refurbished and larger premises at Prugnanes; a visible sign of success.

Historically the reputation of the Agly valley was for vin ordinaire defined by high alcohol and a quaffing rusticity. Now this area has become one of the most exciting wine making regions in France, where a new generation of ambitious producers are using biodynamics and making magnificent wines from indigenous vines – and Le Soula, with Gauby’s guidance, have become one of the top exponents.

Le Soula make a simply stunning white wine but it is the red Soula Rouge that is featured here, an assemblage in 2005 of 25% ancient bush trained Carignan with 10% Syrah, 35% Grenache Noir and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, grapes that are all native to this part of France. The exact blend differs annually, based on the harvest conditions and although it might be similar in make-up to those from the Southern Rhône, it reveals all the terroir and finesse of the Agly valley.

The vineyards are populated with vines of various ages, the majority old, some now approaching their doddery centenary. Precious little else will grow commercially amidst the stone outcrops and scratchy thin granite and schist soils of the garrigue at an altitude of between 350 and 550 metres. Le Soula can be translated from the local Catalan as “sunny” but altitude means that the heat of the day is leavened by cooler nights, so ensuring slow ripening – always good for the creation of complexity and the retention of refreshing acidity in the grapes.

Le Soula’s winegrowing philosophy is to be as natural and “hands-off” as possible in the vineyard and the winery. Biodynamics is employed and they have now started on a journey to organic certification. Hence the fruit is handpicked and whole bunch fermented (stalks on) with wild yeasts. Extraction, the bane of so many modern warm-climate wines, is studiously avoided; the alcohol level of 13% is enough to balance the wine while leaving it easy to drink and a good match with food. As may be expected, there is no chaptalisation (the addition of artificial sugar), acidification or filtration.

After fermentation, a third of the wine is matured in 500 litre oak casks (30% of which are new), the rest aged in tank. There is therefore little overt wood influence. Final blending and bottling of this 2005 vintage took place after 18 months. Yields are usually low and in 2005 were 15 hl/ha, thanks to the exceptionally dry year – there’s no irrigation here! Just 8,400 bottles were made.

At five years old, I think this wine is now showing at the best stage of its development, though it has several years ahead of it. There’s a melding of primary fruit flavours but with the added complexity of some secondary development in bottle. It was decanted for an hour or so before serving as a precaution against the expected sediment.

In colour, a deep garnet core is attractively crimson edged. The nose has good intensity of red berry scents but with secondary notes poking through that will doubtless become more dominant over time. Earth, liquorice and tar show early after pouring, gamey hints appear if the wine is left longer in the glass.

This wine has restrained alcohol and a racy acidity that lends it a rather burgundian elegance and mouthfeel. A depth of red berry and damson fruit were perhaps to be expected, but the additional mulberry flavours were a pleasant surprise. On a long slow fade there is also a meaty and mineral complexity to tempt you back for more. Good concentration, balance and intensity mean that this is a stylish and exciting red wine.

Food wise, rack of lamb with plenty of rosemary works a treat. However, this versatile red wine will match a wide range of dishes, from charcuterie to winter stews.

Domaine Le Soula, Soula Rouge, Vin de Pays de Côtes Catalans, Roussillon, France, 2005. 13%. Biodynamic

OWJ Book Roundup – Daring Pairings

Posted by Adam Morganstern on May 28, 2010 in Book Reviews

You’ve finally learned which dishes go well with a Chardonnay, Riesling or Zinfandel, so where do you go from there? Evan Goldstein is out to raise your food & wine IQ even further with Daring Pairings – A Master Sommelier Matches Distinctive Wines with Recipes from His Favorite Chefs. The book presents in-depth profiles of 36 lesser-known, but widely available, varietals and gives guidelines on what to eat with them.

You’ve never heard of Xinomarvo? No problem. You’ll soon know it means “acid black” and while you’d love it with shellfish it shouldn’t go near anything with hot chili peppers. Goldstein’s strength is providing a lot of information without being overwhelming. Readers can breeze through basic rules, such as “acidic wines lessen the perception of salt,” or go more in-depth about the two different styles of Chenin Blanc. The layout makes it easy to jump around and find something that captures your attention, it’s not necessary to read the book in order.

Each wine also contains its “Daring Paring” – a recipe from a top chef. The dishes are practical and accessible, meant to showcase the wine match, not make you wish you had gone to culinary school. Dan Barber’s Roast Rack of Lamb with Creamy Rice Parsnips is something you’re actually capable of eating tonight with a glass of Tempranillo – you won’t have to stare at the photo just dreaming about it. Charlie Trotter’s Salad of Cornish Game Hen with Shiitake Mushroom Vinaigrette, served with a Gamay, and Kate Zuckerman’s Sherry-Roasted Figs with Crispy Streusel and Cremé Fraîche, served with Sémillon, are among the other delicious choices.

Daring Pairingsis available online at Amazon.com.

OWJ Book Roundup – King of the Lobby

Posted by Adam Morganstern on May 27, 2010 in Book Reviews

For centuries, most people saw wine as a way to enjoy a good meal or relax. Sam Ward saw it as a way to influence government. He arrived in Washington D.C. in 1859, with several cases of fine wine, and managed to secretly draw salaries simultaneously from the U.S. State Department and the country of Paraguay to resolve issues between them. He quickly saw the potential of delicious foods, dinner parties, and the information gathered from them, as a way to wield power. By 1875 the press was referring to him as “King of the Lobby.”

Sam Ward came from a distinguished New York family, was the brother of Julia Ward Howe (author of the Battle Hymn of the Republic) and was the best friend with Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. Author Kathryn Allamong Jacob traces his rise to becoming the “most influential lobbyist of the Gilded Age.”

King of the Lobby: The Life and Times of Sam Ward, Man-About-Washington in the Gilded Ageis available online at Amazon.com.

Adopt Your Own Organic Olive Tree

Posted by Organic Wine Journal on May 27, 2010 in Features

The last thing anyone wants to drink is a bottle of wine with a personalized label. It doesn’t exactly scream quality. But a custom bottle of extra virgin olive oil from your own adopted tree – that’s class.

The Texas Hill Country Olive Company allows you to adopt an organic olive tree and choose from five different varietals, for those of you who are particular about whether you want a Pendolino or Arbequina. At the end of the first year you’ll receive 4 bottles, with your customized label. As your commitment grows, and your tree matures, you’ll eventually reap up to 8 bottles by the fourth year. Visitation rights are also included; might be a good opportunity to pose with your tree for the packaging.

Quivira Vineyards and Winery Produces Bold, Biodynamic Wines

Posted by Bryn Birkhahn on May 26, 2010 in Features

The Quivira property exudes a low-key ambience and an unpretentious approach to the often mystical tenets of biodynamic viticulture. Farmed biodynamically since 2002, the Sonoma property was purchased by Pete and Terri Kight in 2006. Steven Canter, a passionate proponent of biodynamics, was swiftly enlisted to head-up the winemaking program.

With Canter there is no division between vineyard management and winemaking. His process relies on fostering unadulterated, well-balanced varietal characteristics in the grapes that can support his minimalist approach in the cellar.

The four vineyards of Quivira Estate are governed by a diversity of microclimates; from the riparian Wine Creek Ranch where Rhone varietals thrive, to the undulating ridge-top Anderson Ranch that grows a complex blend of Zinfandel. Each block of vines has their own specific combination of training and trellising. With certain varieties, namely the Zinfandel and Grenache, the degree of hands-on crop management the vines receive is impressive, if not staggering.

Throughout the vinification process, the wines at Quivera are ushered through their transformation with an almost spiritual reverence. Hand-crushing, leading to the onset of wild fermentation, is done in shallow stainless steel bins where phenolic extraction is achieved by hand stirring. Canter compares his method to infusing a tea bag in water. New oak is used sparingly when a touch of spice is needed to balance the natural qualities in a given varietal, and to ensure ageability in the wines.

The 2009 Quivira Fig Tree Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc is a bold and intriguing expression of this chameleon-like varietal. The wine is aged on it’s indigenous yeast lees for 6 months. Its creamy pale straw complexion is attractive and its delicate aroma reminds me of key lime pie. It has a hint of floral sweetness with an unmistakable citrus pop. This delicate first impression belies the lip-smacking intensity of a highly ripened Granny Smith apple, or perhaps a zesty lemon verbena sorbet on the palette accompanied by enough mouthfeel to hold up its rather complex tartness. The unmistakably earthy finish evokes crunchy fall leaves and balances out nicely.

At just over 14% alcohol, this wine would surely hold up to any crustacean, no matter how devilishly rich its accoutrement, but it may be a bit too hot for my personal favorite Sauvignon Blanc pairing – porch sitting.

The yin to the Fig Tree Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc’s yang would be their Wine Creek Ranch Petite Sirah. Canter has achieved a restrained wine from a varietal that he describes as normally “the biggest kid on the block”. While its deep garnet color is dense and leggy, the tannic structure is delicate enough to describe it as a medium-bodied red. Leathery dried cherry notes on the nose are rich and inviting without being overpowering, and follows through with a deep grapey-ness on the pallette that reminds me more of forest fruits than juicy prunes. The finish is solid and consistent, retaining its dark fruit character with freshness and a nice level of acidity. Canter envisions a pairing of Moroccan spiced lamb, which sounds like a fabulous idea, especially with a little apricot chutney on the side.

Visit Quivira Vineyards and Winery online.

Bere Bio Road Show – Italian Organic & Biodynamic Wines

Posted by Adam Morganstern on May 25, 2010 in Features

The Bere Bio Road Show reached New York yesterday, promoting 17 organic and biodynamic wineries from Italy. The majority of producers were from Tuscany, with other regions, such as Piedmont and Abruzzi, represented as well. This event not only showcases the growing interest in organic wines, but also the realization among winemakers that banding together, and letting people know how their wines are produced, is a benefit to business.

Ettore Ciancico of La Salceta

Claudio Pierino of Cascina San Lazzaro

Maria Fagiuoli of Montenidoli

Participants:

Stefania Pepe
Piera Martellozzo
La Selva
Cascina San Lazzaro
Tenuta San Pietro
Fattoria La Traiana
Badia a Coltibuono
Casale
La Salceta
Montenidoli
Sassotondo
Sorelle Palazzi
Durante
Casa Wallace
Tenuta Selvadolce
Orsi-Vigneto San Vito
Masiero

OWJ Book Roundup – The Vegetarian Slow Cooker

Posted by Organic Wine Journal on May 24, 2010 in Book Reviews

One of the great advantages of a slow cooker is taking a tough piece of meat and making it mouthwateringly tender. But now that Mario Batali has commanded us to start enjoying “Meatless Mondays” what are carnivores, and vegetarians for that matter, supposed to do with this appliance? Judith Finlayson has the answer with her new book The Vegetarian Slow Cooker. There are over 200 recipes to inspire you to swipe that slow cooker from grandma’s attic and use it in healthy ways. Set up your ingredients in the morning and come home to a perfectly cooked Classic French Onion Soup or Louisiana Ratatouille.

The Vegetarian Slow Cooker: Over 200 Delicious Recipesis available online at Amazon.com.

Louisiana Ratatouille

Eggplant, tomato and okra stew is a classic Southern dish that probably owes its origins to the famous Mediterranean mélange ratatouille. One secret to a successful result, even on top of the stove, is not overcooking the okra, which should be added after the flavors in the other ingredients have melded.

Serves 6

Equipment: Medium (approximately 4 quart) slow cooker (see tips)

• 2 medium eggplants, peeled, cubed (2 inches/5 cm), sweated and drained of excess moisture (see Tips)
• 2 tablespoons (25 mL) oil
• 2 onions, finely chopped
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 teaspoon (5 mL) dried oregano
• 1 teaspoon (5 mL) salt
• 1⁄2 teaspoon (2 mL) cracked black peppercorns
• 1 can (28 oz/796 mL) tomatoes with juice, 1 coarsely chopped
• 2 tablespoons (25 mL) red wine vinegar
• 1 pound (500 g) okra, trimmed and cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) lengths, about 2 cups (500 mL) (see tips)
• 1 green bell pepper, diced (1⁄4 inch/0.5 cm)

In a skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add eggplant, in batches, and cook, stirring, until lightly browned. Transfer to slow cooker stoneware.

Reduce heat to medium. Add onions to pan and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add garlic, oregano, salt and peppercorns and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in tomatoes with juice and red wine vinegar and bring to a boil. Transfer to slow cooker stoneware.

Cover and cook on Low for 6 hours or on High for 3 hours, until hot and bubbly. Add okra and bell pepper. Cover and cook on High for 30 minutes, until okra is tender.

Tips:

Okra, a tropical vegetable, has a great flavor but it becomes unpleasantly sticky when overcooked. Choose young okra pods, 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) long, that don’t feel sticky to the touch (if sticky, they are too ripe). Gently scrub the pods and cut off the top and tail. Okra can also be found in the freezer section of the grocery store. Thaw before adding to slow cooker.

Place cubed eggplant in a colander, sprinkle liberally with salt, toss well and set aside for
30 minutes to 1 hour. If time is short, blanch the pieces for a minute or two in heavily salted water. In either case, rinse thoroughly in fresh cold water and, using your hands, squeeze out excess moisture. Pat dry with paper towels and it’s ready for cooking.

If you are halving this recipe, be sure to use a small (approx. 1-1⁄2 to 3-1⁄2 quart) slow cooker.

Make Ahead:

Complete Steps 1 and 2. Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. When you’re ready to cook, complete the recipe.

Recipe from The Vegetarian Slow Cooker: Over 200 Delicious Recipes by Judith Finlayson
(Robert Rose; February 2010 Softcover/$24.95)

Horse & Plow and Lutea – Tasting Notes

Posted by Greg Wacks on May 20, 2010 in Reviews

Most families drive more than one car, and watch more than one television, so why not have more than one organic winery? Suzanne Hagins and Chris Condos have upped the stakes in the his and hers market with their own labels, each dedicated to organically grown grapes. Suzanne founded Lutea in 2004, where she is the owner and winemaker, and husband Chris founded Horse & Plow in 2008 to make his own wines. They both source their grapes from small vineyards in California’s North Coast.

Horse & Plow Filigreen Farm Pinot Gris 2008

Nose of green apple. Really nice acidity with a little brininess and some faint citrus notes. More pronounced butter and oak as it opens up. Very easy and friendly wine. Great with a meaty white fish.

Lutea Los Carneros Pinot Noir 2007

Made from grapes from Robert Sinskey Vineyard and is also biodynamic. Nice aged color with a tinge of orange brick. Classic Pinot Noir nose with toasty oak and strawberry. Very light body, almost no perceptible tannin. Matches well with Salmon.

Lutea Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007

A stronger nose of cooked strawberries, oak and a little banana. More full bodied. Even though it has less alcohol than the previous Pinot Noir, it feels hotter in the mouth. Fruit is strong but not complex. Another good match for a hearty fish dish.

Lutea Sonoma County Four Barrel Pinot Noir 2007

Blended from three different Sonoma vineyards. Toast and oak on the nose, and a hint of cured meat. A very California style Pinot Noir and a sure crowd pleaser. Grilled chicken or a good local goat’s milk cheese would pair perfectly.

Lutea Russian River Valley Reserve Pinot Noir 2006

We’ll like this even better with a little more age. Pronounced tannins and good acidity. Very earthy and bold. Grill up a nice steak with it.

Horse & Plow Alexander Valley Grenache 2008

Really nice earthy nose. Great acidity with balanced tannins. Hint of sour cherry. A short finish now, but that should improve with some age. Drink with flat bread pizza or a pasta with a light red sauce.

Visit Lutea and Horse & Plow online.