Home »
Posts made in December, 2009
Posted
by Jonathan Russo
on Dec 30, 2009
in Editorials
This last decade in wine has been one of polarization – two trains speeding down the rails with different destinations in mind. The world of branded image-driven corporate wine got bigger. The top brands consolidated their stranglehold at the distribution and retail level. Mega corporations with thousands of employees pressed and sold billions of gallons of wine. Deeply discounted, and priced to equal the quality, they succeeded in taming what was once a Wild West show of growers and distributors. Like the formally fragmented radio industry, they consolidated into a Top 40 format that produced the same soulless sound from Maine to Oregon. Internationally, as well, corporate wine made inroads against the marketing-challenged small producer.
We’ve seen a world standardization of taste profiles, like Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon, become uniform from Chile to Australia. Globalization has meant uniformity; less surprise, more predictability. The Lifetime Achievement and Man of the Year awards given out by the leading wine magazines tell the story. They reward the successful corporate consolidator, the man who now has 40 brands and a 50% market share in his portfolio. These magazines feature the pesticide polluter, the industrial farmer and those indifferent to the earth and farm workers. It is all about efficiency and success measured in cases and cash. You can see their photos in black tie at all the big hotel galas – the big wine press rewarding its enablers.
In a revolt born of disgust and sorrow, the Organic, Biodynamic and Natural wine movement has risen to challenge these practices. Starting with the farmers themselves, they have chosen to grow grapes without poisoning the earth. A few more have chosen to ferment and blend and bottle without adding false ingredients and flavors. And a few more have decided to make a business out of this and distribute these wines to the world.
The world of real wine has not yet tipped, but the next decade may see that happen. As the world of food and wine continues to receive scrutiny that exposes its toxic downside, you can be sure more and more wine drinkers will want to know what is in their glass; how it was grown, how it was made. The rate of conversation to healthy farming is astonishing. It is the thing to do in New Zealand and Sonoma, in the Loire and Lebanon. Wine has always been an artisinal product. It should not be hard for it to return to its roots.
For the next decade I raise a glass to the continued success of everyone in the real wine world; the farmers, wine makers, distributors wine shops, wine bars and restaurants. You are all part of an organic chain, a process that is developing and growing alongside the artisanal food movement. Yet it’s all in the drinking and there too, the real wine world has succeeded, most of its wine is simply delicious. Thanks again.
There are also many people to thank for their help at Organic Wine Journal. All our writers, contributors and photographers. Those that have helped promote and publicize OWJ and those that have supported us with advertising. It is still a complete labor of love. As the decade is almost decanted, it’s time to peer into the sediment and see what is left to be poured into the next decade. We want to thank our readers who have spent the last few years believing that wine should heal, not harm, the planet.
read more
Posted
by Katarina Maloney
on Dec 24, 2009
in Features
When I realized that I would be bumming around Spain for a bit, the winemaker I was immediately referred to was Telmo Rodriguez. Besides being one of Spain’s biggest winemakers, Telmo is known for supporting the Return to Terroir movement. He creates authentic Spanish wines at a reasonable price point, in opposition to the popular Super Riojas that also happen to be super expensive. With seven different wineries around the country, Telmo is most definitely a busy man. However, I was lucky enough to be able to steal him away for a tea break to discuss surfing, art, and oh yes… wine.
Telmo is an avid surfer and the first thing he mentioned was that he was escaping the wine world the following day in search of the famous wave Rodiles found in northern coastal city of Asturias. As someone originally from California, it was music to my ears to know this about a man so influential in the Spanish wine industry. In fact, the more I learned about Telmo, the more I realized that the art of surfing happens to be very in line with the art of Telmo’s winemaking. In order to be a good surfer, you must first be aware that you are not the one in control – the 15 foot wave coming at you is. A surfer must find a balance between respecting nature, knowing how to catch the wave and, once this is met, simply enjoying the ride.
With wine, Telmo is adamant about respecting nature. So much so that all of his wineries are organic and a few are biodynamic. Respecting Spanish traditions, Telmo sticks to the old style bush vines instead of the world wide popular style of trellising which, according to him, aren’t interesting and destroy the landscape. The revival of indigenous Spanish grapes are also very important to Telmo, who has been very outspoken against the colonization of international grapes in Spain. All of this, in addition to small size wineries that emphasize the “human” element in winemaking, allows Telmo to not just make good organic wine, but real wines with real tastes; wines that are easy, honest and good quality for the money.
Telmo also happens to be a big lover of art and a key player within the art and cultural organization La Fabrica located in Madrid. While writing some wine stories for La Fabrica’s art house magazine Matador, Telmo also enjoys directing art and wine projects such as a recent “literary tasting;” consisting of pairing wines with selected literary works including a passage from Shakespeare. Participatingin the art crowd is essential for Telmo who believes that it’s important to seek inspiration from non-wine people, and to mix it up, because after all, “life is a lot of things. Not just wine.”
Compañia de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez, S.L.
El Monte s/n
01308 Lanciego (Álava)
Spain
Phone +34 945 628 315
Fax +34 945 628 314
info@telmorodriguez.com
read more
Posted
by Organic Wine Journal
on Dec 23, 2009
in Features
The good news at Organic Wine Company just keeps coming. Organic Wine Journal readers, and everyone else, can take advantage of a 50% shipping discount on organic sparkling wines for the holidays. Just enter code “FS50″ in the coupon box at checkout.
2008 Altana Rosato del Veneto Frizzante – Perlage
100% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Made in the frizzante style-lightly sparkling a serious Rosé wine that’s fun to drink..
Rated 88 pts and a “Best Buy” Wine and Spirits, August, 2009
Delightful strawberry and peach fruit flavors, with a long, dry and complex finish.
Altana will appeal to a very wide range of wine drinkers
Pairing: Lobster, scallops, appetizers, fruit
Our Price: $14.99
2008 Prosecco Riva Moretta – Perlage
Prosecco is attracting interest all over the world these days.
A joyful drink, clean, crisp and lively, it’s an uncomplicated pleasure appreciated by all age groups!
This organic one from Perlage will fulfill your expectations!
This sparkling wine has a clear straw yellow color and a rich bouquet reminiscent of flowers and fruits, especially unripe green apples.
Our Price: $16.99
Champagne Carte d’Or Brut – Serge Faust
The Real Thing!
A dry, full-bodied brut from Champagne. Rich, full aromas, creamy texture and mature fruit flavors. Hints of yeast and nuts
Aged for three years to give this wine a rich, full aromas, creamy texture and mature fruit flavors. Made more complex by hints of yeast and nuts.
This dry, full- bodied style of Champagne from mostly dark grapes is an excellent wine for hearty appetizers or a full dinner.
AOC Champagne – Vandières (Marne)
70% Pinot Meunier, 25% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Noir
Our Price: $39.99
Blanquette de Limoux Brut – Bernard Delmas
A dry, creamy, full-bodied sparkling wine with a fine yeasty character in the aroma, and toasty green apple & lemon flavors.
Two exclusively white grape varieties: Mauzac and Chardonnay form the basis of the blend for Blanquette de Limoux.
Mauzac, the growth’s traditional variety, gives body and aroma. Chardonnay, its irreplaceable partner, reinforces the bouquet, the freshness and the finesse.
The result is a dry, creamy-textured, full-bodied wine with a fine yeasty character present in the aroma. Subtly fruity, with toasty green apple and lemon flavors. Tastes very clean yet with a long full finish.
Bottle-fermented blend of 80% Mauzac & 20% Chardonnay
Our Price: $19.99
read more
Posted
by Adam Morganstern
on Dec 22, 2009
in Features
Nothing says New Year’s Eve like the sound of corks popping, but that doesn’t mean you’re limited to Champagne. Prosecco, Italy’s famous sparkling wine, makes a great and affordable alternative. We spoke with with Enore Ceola, Managing Director of Mionetto USA, about their success in bringing organic Prosecco into the United States.
How is Prosecco doing in the U.S. market?
It’s doing very well. The entire category is up 21%. Mionetto itself is up 36%. It fits the bill with economy and is a very good value. For $12-15 you can get a good Prosecco. The taste profile fits the palette of many Americans. Fruity, not too sweet and crisp. And it goes great with food. People are saving champagne for special occasions, and enjoying Prosecco for everyday use as well as celebrations.
Will people stop buying Prosecco if the economy improves then?
No, I think the future will be better. When we first came here 12 years ago, people couldn’t pronounce Prosecco. We worked with retails stores and restaurants to educate them and then the consumers got interested. They buy it because they like it. I can tell from the repeat orders.
People are discovering Proseccos, Cavas and Californian sparkling wines. They can spend less money and get something really good.
How much of your wine is sold in the U.S.?
We make a little under a million cases a year. 25% of that is sold in the U.S.
What made you decide to make a certified organic Prosecco?
We’ve seen the demand for organic products. First foods, then wines. There are younger people, more cosmopolitan and more health conscious. They’ve been looking for something sparkling that’s organic. I’ve seen that increasingly in the last two years.
Had Mionetto been involved with organics before?
Many of our grape growers were already practicing organics, but they weren’t certified. In Italy it is very costly, and most people don’t care about the label because they are more used to getting things locally anyway. Things aren’t as processed as they are here in the United States. We never put a stamp on it before because the demand wasn’t there.
Is certifying a difficult process?
Yes. The rounds of going back and forth to get the right documents, having things translated, so many papers. It took over three months to get the label approved. But now we know the process and we can be much faster.
Do you see any chance of the European Union and the United States granting reciprocal certification?
No. I would hope they would do it, but it doesn’t look good. Then again, some things in life shouldn’t always be easy.
Will Mionetto expand their organic selections in the future?
We will try to stay with what we have now for the next 2 to 3 years, and get the right feedback. They if customers are interested we can expand. Maybe do an organic moscato. We already have an organic Pinot Grigio out under another label. We have to find the right accounts. Not everyone can sell organic, but it is a growing category.
read more
Posted
by Adam Morganstern
on Dec 21, 2009
in News
When Organic Vintners announced they would stop online wine sales it was sad news for those who like to purchase their organic wines online. But now The Organic Wine Company has come to the rescue and will be offering many of Organic Vintners selections on their online store. Congratulations to Veronique Raskin and Paolo Benetti on working together for the benefit of organic wine drinkers everywhere.
Here is the press release:
SAN FRANCISCO, CA, DECEMBER 17, 2009: As of the end of this year (2009) Organic Vintners (OV) will no longer be selling organic wines to consumers direct online. In order to continue to provide these wines to their existing online customers, The Organic Wine Company (OWC) has agreed to enhance our existing partnership with OV by adding additional OV wines to our online store.
In an email announcement today, Paolo Benetti, (President of Organic Vintners, assured his customers that; “OWC has been as committed to certified organic wines as Organic Vintners and has been a pioneer dating back to pre-organic regulations. OWC has a wonderful on-line portfolio of certified organic wines which have included some of our brands in the past few years, and they have committed to taking on a few more wines in order to service your chemical-free wine needs.”
Founded in 1980 by Veronique Raskin in San Francisco, The Organic Wine Company imports, distributes, and retails online, a quality selection of organic wines from France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, New Zealand, Argentina and Chile as well as specialty organic wines from California for over 30 years. Information about the company can be found at their web site at www.theorganicwinecompany.com.
Founded in 2001 in Boulder Colorado, Organic Vintners imports and distributes a quality selection of organic wines from France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, New Zealand, Argentina, and Chile as well as their own branded line of organic wines from California. Information about the company can be found at their web site at www.organicvintners.com.
read more
Posted
by Organic Wine Journal
on Dec 11, 2009
in News
Summerhill Pyramid Winery, the largest organic winery in Canada, has been named Canadian Winery of the Year by the International Wine and Spirit Competition in London, England.
Read the full story at bclocalnews.com.
read more
Hidden away in a remote river valley of a region historically known more for gold than grapes is Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden, a boutique Demeter-certified Biodynamic estate winery whose first releases are the toast of The James Beard Foundation, Fortune magazine’s Most Powerful Women Summit, and Oregon’s emerging eco-culinary scene.
Sharing qualities comparable to the world-renowned Châteauneuf-du-Pape region of France’s southern Rhône Valley, Cowhorn sits alongside Southern Oregon’s pristine Applegate River. The farm is fringed by frontier forests on the edge of America’s great western wilderness and supported by soils that are perfectly suited for Grenache, Marsanne, Roussanne, Syrah, and Viognier. Cowhorn’s classic Rhône varietals result in well-balanced wines with low alcohol and high aroma that express signature subtleties of the farm’s unique soils.
Among the new estate’s early accolades is a 90-point rating from Wine Spectator for its 2007 Viognier, now sold out. In their annual round up of most memorable wines, the San Francisco Chronicle featured Cowhorn’s 2007 Marsanne Roussanne, also sold out, as one of the year’s top 20 “unexpected pleasures.” Portland Monthly told readers to “expect to sample some really excellent vino here.” Cowhorn’s 2006 Syrah and 2008 Spiral 36, a hand-crafted blend of Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier, were recently poured at The James Beard House in New York City and Fortune magazine’s annual women’s summit in Los Angeles.
Currently the only certified organic and Biodynamic® winery in Southern Oregon, Cowhorn is among the first certified Biodynamic estate wineries and commercial farms in the United States. Guided by holistic-estate advisor Alan York, consultant winemaker Ken Bernards, and environmental designer Buddy Williams, Cowhorn planted its first eleven acres of vineyard in 2005. Using state-of-the-art technology, winemakers Bill and Barbara Steele gently nudge native yeast through the fermentation process on a mission to make fine wine with few inputs, going from grapes to glass as purely as possible.
Cowhorn benefits from being surrounded by biodiversity that serves as a natural immune system for the vineyard and gardens. When combined with organic and Biodynamic farming methods, this symbiotic relationship not only eliminates the need for petrochemical pesticides but supports the vitality of the surrounding ecosystem. Over half of the 117-acre estate is reserved for garden, habitat, forest and riparian areas with just 50 acres set aside for vineyards. Only 15 acres are currently in cultivation, including 11 in vineyard and 4 in gardens.
Their gentle approach includes complementary farming practices that create critical habitat breaks and wildlife corridors, leave landscapes untouched and intact, and remove invasive species to give native plants a chance to take root again. At Cowhorn, scarecrows have given way to predator perches that allow river access for raptors who in turn guard the grapes.
Because Biodynamic farming is deeply rooted in the practice of perennial polyculture, crops are selected that pair well in the field and on the table. The first planting of asparagus, their second commercial crop, followed in 2006. By 2007, Cowhorn’s garden was supplying thousands of pounds of fresh asparagus to local markets and co-ops, and its club members were receiving the bounty of the farm’s first food crop with their wine allotment.
Other crops in development include artichokes, pumpkins, specialty corn, winter squash, and a test orchard for apples, chestnuts, hazelnuts, pears, and persimmons. The estate’s hazelnut trees have even been inoculated with European black truffle.
Visit Cowhorn Vineyard and Garden online at cowhornwine.com.
read more
Posted
by Jonathan Russo
on Dec 7, 2009
in Features
To understand Israel’s Tishbi Winery, it helps to know the history of winemaking in Napa and Sonoma. California’s wineries were started in the last quarter of the 19th century by visionary European immigrants, hard-working farmers. They grew grapes they were familiar with in the “old country” and prospered slowly; enduring droughts, market disruptions (prohibition), changing tastes and a flood of imported wine.
The strongest, like Mondavi, Sebastiani and Seghesio, have thrived, becoming billion dollar brands. They ship millions of cases, have hundreds of thousands of visitors traipsing through their beautiful architectural-statement wineries and have added restaurants and additional income generators like olive oil and catering.
Tishbi’s history parallels some of the above. Founded in the 1880’s by Lithuanian immigrants, and backed by Baron Edmund de Rothschild, they cultivated unused land in northern Israel, near the cooling Mediterranean Sea. Think Pacific Ocean breezes. The business has metamorphosed as time has passed. Initially all of the grapes were sold into a cooperative. When Jonathan, the current patriarch, took over, he decided the future was in quality, so he ripped out the Alicante and started to grow Cabernet and Chardonnay. It turned out that the soil was perfect for growing a wide variety of high quality grapes and the original 62 acres now produce award-winning wines. His vision was prescient because in 1984, the coop went bankrupt.
Success has created expansion and there are now four other vineyard locations, including one in the Negev desert. There, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are grown using innovative irrigation techniques that are literally making the desert bloom. In the more traditional Israeli grape-growing regions of the Galilee, as well as the Judean Hills south of Jerusalem, eight other varietals including Viognier, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir are cultivated. Roughly 85,000 cases are made, a third of which are exported to everywhere from the U.S. to Brazil and Hong Kong.
There are 18 Tishbi wines made in 4 groupings, each indicative of a quality. They also make “Domecq Trophy” brandy as well as two desert wines, olive oil, honey, and jellies and preserves. Artisinal bread is baked on the premises and served with lunch.
Like many California wineries, this one is multi-generational. The patriarch today is Jonathan. His grandparents started the winery. Today his wife Nili manages the visitor center and retail shop and his son Golan is his “right hand” as well as the wine and bread maker. Another son Michael is in the field as cultivator, while a daughter Oshra is marketing manager as well as managing the café and making a line of fine foods.
Care for the land is utmost in the Tishbis’ minds. They are passionate about not harming the soil and so do not use pesticides, fungicides or herbicides in the growing of their grapes. “I believe the soil has enough power to make wine without fertilizers, and I don’t need quantity, just quality,” Jonathan told us. Dry irrigation methods which use 20% as much water as regular methods, severely restrict yields and produce intense concentrations of flavor as well as leaving room for the sun to find its way onto the grape clusters eliminating the need for fungicides. “In Golan they do it by the book. If it’s Friday, it must be pesticide day. At Tishbi, we’re low-tech. The grapes tell us what to do, not a computer.”
Israel is not in the E.U., so organic certification is a difficult matter. It’s questionable as to whether it would be worth the effort to become certified as neither the U.S. nor the E.U would recognize it. Talking to Jonathan, it was clear that his family’s land practices were part of a very deep commitment and not something he needed to advertise.
There are other organic wineries in Israel and we learned that it is fast becoming the way to go amongst a new generation of wine makers. If they are all as successful as Tishbi, Israeli wine has a bright future ahead of it.
TASTING NOTES:
Tishbi Estate, Pinot Noir, 2006.
Very unique. Not your grandfather’s pinot, an acquired taste. Highly acidic. Not a lot of fruit. Tishbi says, “mocha and coffee bean, thyme, delicate and elegant.” Our tasting notes weren’t the same, so we leave it to you.
Tishbi Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006.
Just what you want. Great balance. Lush, rich, full with fruit. Chocolate. 1 year in oak. Delicious. Tishbi says, “plum, raspberry, cassis, vanilla. Velvety texture, slightly sweet.” We agree.
Jonathan Tishbi Special Reserve, 2004.
Smoky. The leather is so prominent that even a wine novice can detect it. Deep, flavorful. A desert grant cru. It deserves the name ‘special.’ 2 years in oak. Tishbi nailed it by saying, “complex, rich and full body, purple hues with stone fruits, violets, herbs, nuances of dark chocolate.” Even Gary Vaynerchuk raves about this beauty, ranking it #4 in the world. Multi-award winner.
read more
