Your Guide to Organic, Biodynamic and Natural Wine


Odeon Gets It Right

Odeon Restaurant
I love this restaurant. One of Keith McNally’s first successes, it’s been a fixture in New York’s Tribeca for 29 years. I lived four blocks away from 1975-1985 during a wild and crazy time in New York so it’s a real trip down memory lane just to step in the place. Odeon is now owned by Keith’s ex-wife Lynn, and she seems to have the joint still jumping. It was all there: the lighting, the ambiance, and the downtown vibe. We stepped in for dinner the other night and had to wait at the bar as the crowds kept flowing in.

Shown to a table and given the wine list, I am pleased to report that Odeon, for all it’s venerable age, is totally cutting edge. They do something that so many find hard to do – they tell you which wines are organic and biodynamic.

Under Pinot Noir and Gamay they have three organic and one biodynamic selection, including a Moulin A Vent Les Trois Roches, Beaujolais 2007 France. You can also choose from two organic Rhones or a Merlot from Bordeaux, Fronsac Chateau La Vielle Cure, 2004. Sadly, of the 6 Italians there are no organics, but they do have two choices from Chile and Argentina.

That isn’t so hard, is it? Rather than guessing, summoning a Sommelier or having to memorize a list of producers, Odeon simply tells you what is organic and biodynamic. They even put it in bold letters.

The price points for these wines are in the middle of their conventional counterparts, so it’s clear that organic and biodynamic doesn’t have to cost more. It’s also great that they don’t segregate organic and biodynamic into their own section, and keep them with their proper regions and varietals.

This is the way we think it should be done: low-key, informative, not in your face. Just helpful. Thanks Odeon, and I plan to keep coming for another 29 years.