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Posts made in October, 2009
Posted
by Jonathan Russo
on Oct 28, 2009
in Features
I love this restaurant. One of Keith McNally’s first successes, it’s been a fixture in New York’s Tribeca for 29 years. I lived four blocks away from 1975-1985 during a wild and crazy time in New York so it’s a real trip down memory lane just to step in the place. Odeon is now owned by Keith’s ex-wife Lynn, and she seems to have the joint still jumping. It was all there: the lighting, the ambiance, and the downtown vibe. We stepped in for dinner the other night and had to wait at the bar as the crowds kept flowing in.
Shown to a table and given the wine list, I am pleased to report that Odeon, for all it’s venerable age, is totally cutting edge. They do something that so many find hard to do – they tell you which wines are organic and biodynamic.
Under Pinot Noir and Gamay they have three organic and one biodynamic selection, including a Moulin A Vent Les Trois Roches, Beaujolais 2007 France. You can also choose from two organic Rhones or a Merlot from Bordeaux, Fronsac Chateau La Vielle Cure, 2004. Sadly, of the 6 Italians there are no organics, but they do have two choices from Chile and Argentina.
That isn’t so hard, is it? Rather than guessing, summoning a Sommelier or having to memorize a list of producers, Odeon simply tells you what is organic and biodynamic. They even put it in bold letters.
The price points for these wines are in the middle of their conventional counterparts, so it’s clear that organic and biodynamic doesn’t have to cost more. It’s also great that they don’t segregate organic and biodynamic into their own section, and keep them with their proper regions and varietals.
This is the way we think it should be done: low-key, informative, not in your face. Just helpful. Thanks Odeon, and I plan to keep coming for another 29 years.
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Posted
by Adam Morganstern
on Oct 26, 2009
in Features
“When you have a winery in your family, you can’t say when you started working there,” says Nicolò Mascheroni Stianti of Castello Di Volpaia. “You just grow up with it.” Nicolò is also CEO of a publishing company in Milan, but since 2006 he’s been spending more time with the family business. “My parents said to learn to sell wine. You can make the best wine ever, but it won’t matter if no one buys it.”
Castello Di Volpaia is no ordinary winery, unless you consider owning your own 11th-century village typical. Raffaello Stianti, Nicolò’s grandfather, began purchasing the Volpaia lands in Tuscany in 1964 and it’s been farmed organically since then. “My grandfather was the one who started it. He was a hunter and he thought being organic would attract more animals to the property.”
Nicolò’s parents, Carlo and Giovannella, received the estate as a wedding gift, and in the mid ’70s dedicated themselves to modernizing the winery. They now produce around 20,000 cases a year, all of which are certified organic in the European Union. Giovannella runs a cooking school on the property, also dedicated to doing things organically. They raise their own chickens and grow their own vegetables to create a self-sustaining community.
Although 40% of their wine is sold in the United States, you won’t see “organic” on those labels. Nicolò blames the lack of reciprocal certification between the European Union and the United States, something he finds very frustrating. “These are the two biggest markets for wine and they should be able to come to an agreement. If you’re organic, you’re organic.”
It’s not just a matter of meeting standards, but also comes down to the paperwork required. “It’s too much,” Nicolò states. “You have to keep track of what you buy and what you use. And since the two governments require two different accounting methods you’d have to keep two separate books for doing the same thing.”
Ironically, Volpaia also produces an organic olive oil which they’re allowed to import into the U.S. with “organic” on the label. “Why is the olive oil all right, but not the wine?” questions Nicolò. “If we were cheating somehow on the wine, wouldn’t we be doing the same with olive oil?”
While he believes in certification for organics, Nicolò doesn’t feel the same way about biodynamics. “Demeter just arrived in Italy, but I disagree with their certification. Biodynamics is a philosophy. It’s the way you choose to apply it. Organics is an objective. It can be measured. You can use this, you can’t use that.”
Organics is getting more popular in Italy. Other winemakers have been coming to Volpaia for advice and Nicolò is starting a blog detailing their methods and organic approaches to problem solving. “Our vines didn’t suffer this year, whereas our neighbors had a lot of problems. It was a hot and dry harvest.”
Volpaia isn’t only concerned with the environment. They’ve recently teamed up with Save The Children and have created a special wine, Il Puro, whose proceeds will go to building four schools and four wells in Ethiopia. The wine is carbon neutral; all CO2 emissions are offset by new plants. You can make a donation to purchase one of the 1,500 bottles on their website.
Nicolò is currently wrapping up his sales trip to New York and is then headed to Boston, where he spent a year in college. “I worked as a waiter while I was in school there. It’s still the most profitable job I ever had.”
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Posted
by Katarina Maloney
on Oct 21, 2009
in Features
Working the last two months at Tenuta di Valgiano in Lucca, Italy has been the turning point in my life. My discussions on biodynamics with Saverio Petrilli, the winemaker, have been so powerful I could only compare it to a religious experience. Saverio is well respected within the Italian and biodynamic winemaking community, and he often consults for Slow Food and Demeter on new projects. He also has the best nose I’ve ever encountered – he can immediately point out when I’ve been munching on garlic from ten feet away. I talked with him recently about the winery, biodynamics and this year’s harvest.
How was the 2009 harvest? Do you learn something new every year?
Of course I do. Things are new and old at the same time. Nature is all connected, and anything that you do on one side, you will see the result on the other side. You have to have a lot common sense, but man does not live with common sense anymore. Most of the time we are so far away from it. So luckily for me, I learned more common sense.
This year I made a few trials with the biodynamic preparation 501. It enhances the effects of light and usually it is avoided in dry, hot countries. And this was a very hot and dry year for us. You would think the plants where I sprayed would suffer more than the ones I didn’t because they were absorbing more light. In fact, it was the other way around.
This tells me the energy of the sun is a regulator, like when you are full of energy you don’t feel cold, stress or tiredness. You just are plentiful. The sun is the energy of the plant. When you enhance the sun’s ability to increase this energy, you are enhancing everything demanded by the vintage. When you are weak, you are more susceptible to disease. When you are strong, you are more resistant.
We had good weather, so it was easy to pick and the grapes had rich flavors, acidity, and sugar. They had everything. There were also a lot of grapes. Everyone thinks that small yields are beautiful and wants to reduce. But in our situation there were a lot of grapes and they were good. So nature can teach us with a bit of irony.
Tenuta di Valgiano was established in 1993 and is already the leading winery in Lucca. What has that journey been like?
Simply put, very tiring. Valgiano at first was nothing. A nice, but ruined property. It took a lot of energy to build the team, the structures and find out what the vines could produce. When you have a great terroir you want to create a great wine of the terroir. You’re not producing something simple and sweet for the market. We had to defend ourselves from the media at certain stages and point out and protect our beliefs.
In the beginning it’s all big steps and afterwards you look at the details. This fine tuning is the most difficult part and can take centuries. However, in today’s world you are not given centuries. When biodynamics is as good as it has been for us, you become a part of its army. People say that biodynamics is all bullshit, but you have to fight. It’s not really a crusade, because you’re not attacking anyone that does conventional agriculture. Instead, I’m just defending my beliefs and showing what has happened at Valgiano with biodynamic agriculture. And no one can contest me because it’s a reality they can see.
Who were some of your mentors?
Julian Castagna was my first mentor, though today we might not do the same thing. But biodynamics is really about freedom. My next mentor was Alex Podolinksky who is the finest man I have met on earth. In two hours he can change your life forever and give you such an amazing world view, so broad and complete, that your life before almost disappears. It’s like you’re in kindergarten again.
How would you explain your concept of biodynamics?
The biggest problem with biodynamics in today’s world is that it’s not possible to state or describe. Its almost an illusion. Biodynamics is really about the preparation. The only thing you can describe is the way you prepare, store and distribute it in the soil. And then everything is up to the farmer; the sensibility and the way to adapt to a situation. So this makes it very difficult to catch and write in block letters.
But the preparations are revolutionary and no one understands how evolutionary it is. The idea that the farm can do well without buying anything. Even if you use organic agriculture, you will probably need to buy manure. So then you have to have a huge truck, which is polluting and creates traffic problems and so on. With biodynamics, you can mimic the function of manure with just 100 grams of humus, which is nothing. You can do it on your own farm with one cow on 40 hectares of land.
It’s so easy and makes you completely free from all the seductive, economical tricks the “new” research from the university wants you to believe. And in the end, we discover that all of the research is fake anyway. When someone states a “new” truth, I automatically know it’s not acceptable for my farm. I consult with myself first for everything with Valgiano. And through many mistakes, I’ve been able to discover the needs of this place. Like a human relationship, you learn how to share a life and to make another person happy.
What advice do you have for young winemakers?
Believe, create, trust, and give. These are the main things. And then everything happens. Valgiano was in an area that was completely unknown before us, and now it’s something thanks to the effort we have made. We put in a lot of energy without any other parties or tools. And then you should be confident. Trust yourself and the people around you. And that they will be good and they will work for the best, and people with power will use it for the best. You should also really be creative and ready to receive nature. Rudolf Steiner said we should place ourselves by nature and let nature design and paint herself. So that means not to have preconceived ideas but to be ready to change your mind constantly. Let intuition come through and direct your steps.
What are some of your favorite wine regions and wines?
I’ve learned so much through visiting other winemakers, and in the end I realized how much was driven by passion and emotions and how that was making a difference in the wine they made. To such an extent, that when I found a passionate and sensitive winemaker, I would be very upset if the wine didn’t match. I would think that it couldn’t be possible. And when it happened, I found that there was a problem in the life of the winemaker that had diverted their energy from the wine.
For example, I knew someone in Bordeaux who lost her husband and her wines were good, but not great. But usually her passion was there. So in the end I can’t say my favorite region, only that my favorite winemakers are the people who put their passion in their wine and those who are animated by the passion of the sacred fire. This fire burns and there is no room for anything else. Your creativity goes only to the wine. All my energy is to work; to Valgiano. But still I feel that I am enriched by this and that I can live without all the other things.
Top three things you can’t live without in terms of food or drink?
Spaghetti a pomodori fresco with lots of basil and garlic. Everything else I’m very fond of but it’s all interchangeable. I’m really adaptable. Even if Valgiano went away I could still live, no problem.
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Posted
by Adam Morganstern
on Oct 15, 2009
in Reviews
Randall Graham is embracing biodynamics and Bonny Doon is now on its way to certification with Demeter. Bonny Doon has also started putting ingredient labels on their wines in an effort towards “complete transparency.” So, along with grapes, you may see tartaric acid, untoasted wood chips and copper sulfate printed on your bottle.
The OWJ gang took a selection of these wines on a recent getaway and here are our notes.
2008 Albarino Ca’ Del Solo Estate Vineyard, Monterey
The nose is fresh like the sea. It’s graceful, if a little disjointed. Acid in one place, fruit in another. Nice lemon finish with tart acidity. Should go well ceviche, sushi or shrimp cocktail.
2007 Le Cigar Blanc, Beeswax Vineyard
Fresh creamy nose, with confectionary subtext. Rich, full bodied with brown spice and oak notes.
2008 Muscat Ca’ Del Solo Estate Vineyard. Monterey
Light frisky muscat nose. Does it taste like a muscat? It’s more of a muscat lite. Low sugar, nice balance though you wish for a little more acid.
2008 Vin Gris De Cigare
This Rosé smells great, like strawberries and earth. Nice simple wine that could use a little more drive.
2005 Le CIgar Volant
Great intensity. Ripe berry nose. Woodsy. Youthful for an 05 wine. Elegant. Tannins still kicking but integrating. Will be great in a couple of years. Good length. Subtle boysenberry finish. Great for grilled meats or roasted chickens.
The wines reviewed were provided to us by Bonny Doon Vineyard.
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Posted
by Adam Morganstern
on Oct 14, 2009
in News
When when of our favorite wineries teams up with one of our favorite importers it can only mean good news for New York wine lovers. Coturri Winery is now going to be represented by Jenny & Francois Selections. Known for their collection of natural wines from France, this will be the first U.S. wine the importer will carry. The Organic Wine Journal spoke with Jenny Lefcourt about the news.
This is the first U.S. wine in your portfolio. Why Coturri?
It’s the only American wine I drink on a regular basis. It’s 100% the same philosophy of the wineries we work with in France. We’ve recently expanded to Italy and Spain as well, so we’re spreading our borders.
Tony has a loyal following. What will you do to increase interest in his wines?
In the past two years there’s been a tremendous interest in natural wines. It’s a perfect moment to remind people that Coturri has always been in the spirit of that.
How many labels will you carry?
Right now we have 8 labels in stock. We’ll test the waters with those and see what people’s interest are. One of my favorites is the Cabernet Sauvignon.
Will you be concentrating more on restaurants or wine stores?
Both. I believe in these wines. Everyone should have an opportunity to taste them. I don’t present any of my labels as a niche wine. There are so many palettes out there. These wines are well balanced and have the acidity that a lot of California wines lack. Coturris are perfect for Thanksgiving. Beautiful complexity.
How long have you been drinking Coturri wines?
At least 8 years, I’ve always been a big fan.
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Posted
by Paul Howard
on Oct 13, 2009
in Reviews
Dominique and Patrick Belluard own this biodynamic estate of just 13 ha at Ayze, in the heart of the Haut Savoie valley of l’Arve. They are the third generation of the family to run it since it was created in 1947. They took charge in 1988 and converted to biodynamics in 2001.
The domaine is located high up in the Alps at 450 metres; with Mont Blanc forming the dramatic backdrop to ancient south facing vineyards that date back at least to the 13th Century. The conditions here are remarkably good for quality grape growing – heat generated under clear skies by day ensures ripeness, yet the cold nights also help retain fresh acidity. Belluard make excellent wines from the local Savoie grapes; Altesse white and Mondeuse red. However, they also grow something unique – 12 ha of the ultra- rare Gringet grape which is found nowhere else but around Ayze and is sometimes referred to locally as Petite Rousette.
Indeed, Belluard grows the vast majority of Gringet as there is only another 1 ha allocated between 15 other local producers. So you probably won’t find anyone else in the world but Belluard making pure expressions of Gringet. While some Gringet is used to make traditional method sparkling wine, their premium still white wine is called Le Feu. It is so named because the Gringet grows on red-streaked glacial deposits that are rich in iron called Terre Feu.
Gringet was once thought to be related to the Savagnin grape of the nearby Jura and so be part of the Traminer family. However, this has recently been disproved by DNA testing, so its origins remain a mystery. Some claim it has been grown here since before the arrival of the Romans, while others suggest it came all the way from Cyprus with itinerant Monks in medieval times.
On the evidence of Le Feu, Gringet is a grape that fully deserves to be discovered. A mid-yellow colour, the nose has a light rose perfume and a hint of aniseed, turning more towards jasmine as it warms in the glass. No wonder then that comparisons with the Traminer family are made, yet the nose seems more finely delineated and ethereal than most.
The palate invites all those clichés about inhaling crisp mountain air and skinny-dipping in glacial meltwaters. What it has is precision and focus from plenty of acidity, helped by blocking the secondary malolactic fermentation in the winery and so preventing it from turning broader and creamier. Flavour-wise, there are gentle hints of peach and pear, with an underlay of quince, possibly picked up from the wine spending time on its lees. The wine has an unusual sarsaparilla note before a fleeting glimpse of honey rounds things off. There’s good balance too, between the fruit, acidity and a relatively light 12% alcohol – that makes it easy to drink and good with food. This is subtle stuff that will have you refilling your glass in almost indecent haste.
Le Feu is drinking perfectly now, yet Dominique Belluard suggests that it will develop a more honeyed tone over the next 3-5 years. Food wise, this would be a versatile white wine to match with goat’s cheese, scallops and fresh water fish such as Trout or the wonderful local Omble Chevalier.
In US available at around $25.00
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Posted
by Greg Wacks
on Oct 13, 2009
in Reviews
When it comes to food and wine, “peasant” hardly means low class any more. To me it means small stone farmhouses in the south of France with honest, rustic dishes to match. You know exactly what’s in your glass and what’s on your plate. A good peasant wine will be a truthful representative of its terroir.
Our friends at The Organic Wine Company sent us some wines we thought would be fine examples of peasant wines. The family of Veronique Raskin, the driving force behind the company, has owned the property of Chateau Bousquette for over 200 years and they have been growing their grapes organically since 1975.
We brought these bottles to the Angelica KItchen, the legendary vegan restaurant in New York’s East Village, where they have a cross-section of Asian and American inspired food with bold flavors, but also honest and simple to keep with our peasant theme.
We started with two wines from Chateau Bousquette. First was their Rosé from the St. Chinian AOC in the South of France. It had a wonderful pink color in the glass, showing hints of orange. The nose was a classic Rosé profile showing some light berry and quince notes. In the mouth, the main flavor component is candied fruit and orange peel that was balanced perfectly with a hefty amount of tannin and acidity. The nice balance of acidity, fruit and a lovely roundness to this wine paired perfectly with the tempeh rueben sandwich that was full of tangy, rich, tart and crunchy flavors.
Up next was the Chateau Bousquette Cuvée Tradition. This is a full bodied blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mouvedre and Carignan also from the same St. Chinian AOC. If the Rose made us think of that quintessential peasant village in the summer, the Cuvee Tradition took us straight to the late fall. This wine showed a deep red color in the glass and had wonderful earthy notes with a touch of sulfur that was framed by some candied cherries. This was a big wine in the mouth with a good deal of tannic structure, acidity and fruit that was pleasantly balanced. While no one note stood out, this wine would be well served by a nice hearty stew of locally raised meat and organic veggies. We enjoyed this wine with a dish full of Asian soba noodles, vegetables and wonderfully aromatic broth.
Our last offering from was the 2007 Chateau Veronique; named after Veronique, of course. It is a similar blend of Carignan, Grenache, and Syrah but where the previous wine showed big bold flavors and elements, this wine baffled us a bit. The ruby red color held a nose that was somewhat subdued, showing faint hints of cherry and blackberry and some wet earth. In the mouth, however, there was a very pleasant balance of fruit, acidity and oak that showed no overwhelming characteristic but rather a very pleasing balance of flavors and elements. We all noted that this was the type of wine that would be served alongside many family meals in that peasant farmhouse that had been conjured up in our minds.
Even though our night of drinking was in the confines of an asian-influenced vegan restaurant in the East Village, we felt transported to a more rustic time and place. In this age of over manipulated, mass-produced wines, with little or no unique characteristics, there was no denying that the wines of Chateau Bousquette and Chateau Veronique did their part to distinguish themselves. These are quintessential peasant wines that deserve simple, rustic peasant fare.
The wines for this review were sent to us from the Organic Wine Company.
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Posted
by Adam Morganstern
on Oct 8, 2009
in Features
On a recent trip to Ohio I saw an Unoaked Chardonnay section at a wine store. This is the kind of sections, and honesty, more stores should have. Send us your suggestions for what you would like to see. Here are some ideas from our group:
Lyle Fass: Restrained California Reds
Greg Wacks: Grapes You’ve Never Heard of
Adam Morganstern: $15 Wines That Are Better Than Our $50 Wines
Evan Spingarn: Chillable Reds
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