I have seen multiple stories recently of how strong the organic/biodynamic wine niche remains even during these turbulent economic times. It's true that this is a very heartening overall trend in the U.S., that people are paying attention to what they put into their bodies. But I think this trend is somewhat due to the fact that Organics has finally developed sex appeal. Let's start with the surface level, as one usually does. Compare the rosy, plump organic apples available today with the withered, pockmarked organic produce of recent history. Same goes for wine where we used to have only oxidized, poor quality organic wines available, but now that hundreds of well respected wineries around the world have fully embraced organic and biodynamic grape growing, we are experiencing amazingly silky, stunning wines. I went to The Ten Bells wine bar in lower Manhattan this week. Ten Bells is a true French style wine bar. There are similar venues throughout Paris. Small, sexy, convivial and crowded. You are there to talk loud, laugh long, eat and drink with gusto. A relatively limited food and wine selection but all of exceptional quality and highly recommended. Ten Bells focuses on organic and biodynamic wines. The staff were gruff but tender and authentically passionate about their chalkboard menu. I felt absolutely confident to put myself in their very capable hands. I wish I could have gotten a good photo of FiFi, our wonderful host. But Ten Bells is dark and hectic. He was gorgeous, charming and smelled delicious. He suggested the Catherine and Pierre Breton Bourgueil and I knew he was the man for me. We drank the Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Trinch! 2007. $17. It had crunchy red fruit flavors, touch of minerality and fennel. Easy to find online and very easy to drink with charcuterie.