Organic Wine Journal

A major debate in the organic and biodynamic wine world is how wines should be displayed in retail stores. Some prefer a separate section, while others loathe the idea of winding up in the “organic ghetto.” Many winemakers feel if they make a Bordeaux wine they should be in the Bordeaux section, and not relegated to some bottom-shelf of a back corner. Adding to the problem are the number of wineries that practice organic/biodynamic/natural methods but do not get certification and, more confusingly, the wineries that are certified but don’t put it on the label.

I recently taught a class at Astor Wines in New York City, and was impressed with the way their store approaches this problem. They take a three-step approach which combines the best of all worlds:

1. The wines are displayed with all the others from the same region/country, but have a green shelf label describing the practices.
2. They have a separate and impressive “organic section” that displays a number of these same wines as a group.
3. There is a cool room, kept at a constant 57 degrees, where more delicate wines are stored.

Not every store has the size and budget of Astor Wines to do all three, but any place can take the first step and consider the other two if money and space allow. I spoke with Lorena Ascencios, the Wine Buyer for Astor, about their system.

When did Astor start putting green shelf labels for organic/biodynamic/natural wines around the store?

Since we moved to our new location about three years ago. I wanted it to be educational, but first and foremost I love these wines and wanted to promote them. The timing couldn’t be better in terms of where people’s minds are now and all the press surrounding organics.

How do you choose which wines go into the “organic section?”

All of our wines are out on the main floor. We’re lucky to have the space to have duplicate content. This way people who are specifically looking for it can go straight there. We have highlights from around the store as well as a selection at different price points.

What percentage of your wines fall into the green category?

I guess 20%. We don’t have a goal. We’re a business and our top concern is always the quality of the wine and pricing. If I’m tasting wines that are great, and on top of that they’re also organic, I’m thrilled.

How has the reaction from customers been?

Very positive. Based on their interest I can show them to the organic section, or just tell them the green labels are throughout the store. We’re large enough to have the best of both worlds.

Anything negative?

Some customers question how we know the methods if it’s not on the label. We have to explain about different countries having different regulations, how some have been organic for centuries, etc. One thing we are careful about, though, is promoting the wines for being great. Methods aren’t always meaningful to people. They want quality wine, and practices may be second or third on the list.

Since not everything is on the label, how do you do your research?

I rely a lot on my reps. Once they get to know me they learn this information is important for me so they find out. I also go online and research there.

Visit Astor Wines online at astorwines.com.