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Posts made in December, 2008
Posted
by Adam Morganstern
on Dec 30, 2008
in Features
Discount for OWJ Readers. – Use promo code “Organic” and get 15% off.
Adam Morganstern, editor of the Organic Wine Journal, will be teaching a class on organic and biodynamic wines as Astor Wines & Spirits in New York City on Monday, Januray 12th. Follow this link to get your tickets. Class description below.
Organic, biodynamic, sustainable, natural…these terms tend to confuse more than they clarify, particularly within the wine world. Join Adam Morganstern, editor of the Organic Wine Journal, as we explore these terms in depth (and taste some delicious examples of each along the way). We’ll explore the agricultural practices behind such terms, as well as look at varying techniques for vinification and how this translates into what you taste in the glass. You’ll gain an understanding of the the varying meanings behind these terms from country to country – and you’ll learn why many winemakers choose to forsake these labels altogether. We’ll even get to that tricky matter of sulphites, and debunk a number of myths surrounding the subject. Most of all, you’ll walk away with an appreciation for the time, care, and effort that goes into making these very special wines (and hopefully find a few new favorites along the way).
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Posted
by Frank Cisneros
on Dec 18, 2008
in Reviews
Sparkling wine has an illustrious history of livening up celebrations. In 1876 the Tsar of Russia commissioned the now ubiquitous Crystal to make a distinguished sparkler that would impress his court, and Napoleon’s armies famously opened their bottles of bubbly with their sabers, a practice that continues to this day (though as this video attests, you can even “saber” a bottle open with a Champagne flute!) In the United States, we tend to use the word Champagne to describe any sparkling wine, but there is a difference. Sparkling wine refers to any wine from anywhere in the world that is brought to effervescence in any number of ways. In contrast, Champagne must come from the Champagne region of France, where rules establish a painstaking process that results in some of the best, and most expensive, sparkling wine in the world. Here are two sparklers I highly recommend:
Prosecco ‘Riva Moretta’, Perlage ’05 organic Retail Price $17 (Organic Vintages)
This charming sparkler from the Veneto region of Italy is produced in the Charmat method, which differs from the Champagne method in many ways, not the least of which is how long it’s aged. Minimal ageing helps preserve the wine’s fun, fruit-forward nature. It’s notes of green apple, lemon and pear makes it a perfect aperitif.
Blanc de Noir, Hermann J. Weimer NV ’03 practicing organic Retail Price $30 (Martin Scott Wines)
Blanc de Noir means literally “white of black.” As implied, this wine from the Fingerlakes of New York is made entirely of Pinot Noir, yet is vibrantly clear due to a lack of contact with the grape skins. Produced through “Methode Champenoise,” the traditional method of Champagne, this sparkler exhibits notes of strawberry, hazelnut, and a crisp, refreshing minerality.
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Posted
by Nicki Sizemore
on Dec 17, 2008
in Recipes
This vibrant and light winter salad provides a welcome contrast to the rich fare of the season. Thinly shaved fennel and glistening orange segments are tangled together with winter greens, toasted hazelnuts and crumbled feta for a crunchy and refreshing beginning to any holiday meal. Serve it with a glass of Prosecco and let the party begin.
Serves: 4-6
Prep time: 15 minutes
- 2 navel or blood oranges
- 1-2 teaspoons honey
- 1-2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
- 1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
- 1 large garlic clove, crushed
- Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1/4-1/2 cup good quality extra virgin olive oil
- 2 medium fennel bulbs
- 2 cups mizuna, arugula or tatsoi leaves, torn into bite-sized pieces if large
- 1/4 cup toasted hazelnuts, chopped
- 2-4-ounces feta cheese, crumbled
- Cut off the stem and bottom end off each orange. Stand one orange on a flat end and cut away the peel, moving your knife from the top to the bottom. Holding the peeled orange over a bowl, cut in between the membranes to remove the segments (drop them directly into the bowl). Squeeze out any remaining juice into a separate bowl. Repeat with the second orange.
- In the bowl with the juice, add honey and balsamic vinegar to taste (until you find a balance you like—this will depend on the sweetness of the oranges), along with the rosemary, crushed garlic clove, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Whisk until the honey is dissolved. Let sit while you prep the vegetables to let the flavors infuse.
- Cut off the fennel stems and discard, reserving 2 tablespoons of fronds. Using a mandoline or sharp knife, cut the fennel into paper-thin slices and transfer to a large bowl. Add the winter greens.
- Remove the garlic clove from the vinegar mixture and discard. Whisk in 1/4-1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil to taste.
- Toss the salad with vinaigrette (you will not need it all). Season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with the hazelnuts, feta and reserved fennel fronds.
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Posted
by Jonathan Russo
on Dec 12, 2008
in Features
Was the glass of organic and biodynamic wine in 2008 half full or half empty? From our seat at OWJ it seems a little murky; like an unfined, unfiltered red Rhone. Industry statistics point to an increase in sales of around 30% for the organic category against a backdrop of 3% for all wine. However, that starts from a very low base, estimated at still less that 1% of all wine produced.
Other signs point in two directions at once. At a fund raiser the other evening the head of one of New York’s famous wine stores told me he all his fall sales were for wines between $6.00 and $15.00 a bottle – down from the $25 and up. That can’t be good for organic and biodynamic wines, as they are mostly smaller higher cost artisinal producers. If the global fiscal meltdown drives everyone into the grape factory arms of Yellow Tails and Ravenswood that would be unfortunate.
Yet a new cool wine shop, Blue Angel, specializing in organic and biodynamic wine just opened in the hot place for young people, Williamsburg Brooklyn. Blue Angel is focused on artisinal wines under $15.00.
I also had a conversation with two high up sales reps for one of the largest wine importers, people who sell tens of millions of dollars of wine to restaurants and bars. They told me that “organic wine is definitely hot, everyone asks for it and it’s on the radar of our bars and restaurant clients.”
Wine shops too are more often highlighting their organic and biodynamic wines, via a defined section or a green marker. Some shops are regularly featuring these wines in their ads and promotional efforts, a very good omen for our world.
The media are also adding their weight towards the “tipping point”. There were scores of articles on organic wines last year. I saw stories in local newspapers and regional magazines and in the influential giants like Gourmet and Food and Wine. Even the mainstream media like Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast ran articles and features.
Lastly, here at the Organic Wine Journal we continue to experience a nice steady growth in readers, links and contributors. We are only beginning, however. We have big plans for 2009. A new re-designed site is coming soon to reach out to the organic and biodynamic wine community and help them promote and sell their wines better. We will try harder to save more earthworms, insects, birds and farm workers than ever.
As always we love to hear from you. We want more links, more advertisers, more articles and stories and more feedback from our wine community.
Here’s a toast to an organic and biodynamic 2009!
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Posted
by Adam Morganstern
on Dec 11, 2008
in News
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency has started their own FBI-style most wanted list. What does it take to make this gang of crimnals?
Denis L. Feron installed a secret pipe behind his factory that discharged pollutants into a tributary of the Mississippi River. Authorities beleive he is hiding in Belgium, but if you see him at the local Starbucks let the police know.
Then there’s John Karayannides who was involved in the illegal discharge of tons of oil-contaminated grain from his ship, into the ocean. As with others on the list, you are urged not to apprehend these individuals on your own.
No one from the wine world appears to be on the list yet.
See the full list at: EPA Fugitives | Criminal Enforcement | US EPA.
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Posted
by Adam Morganstern
on Dec 9, 2008
in Letters
In the latest edition of Tom Stevenson’s book WINE REPORT 2009 published by DK Publishing, we have received a meaningful review. The WINE REPORT isn’t a typical rating publication like Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate or the Wine Spectator. It’s a book for savvy wine lovers. It’s a European standard. The trends in the wine world are discussed. When a winery is mentioned in the book it’s more than having a good wine, it’s noting an effort for excellence.
The section we were recognized in is the “Organic & Biodynamic Wines.” Monty Walden is the writer who reported on the trends in the Organic and Biodynamic wine world. Monte has been specializing for the last decades in this area. He makes the effort to visit wineries, not to just taste their latest releases but to try to understand what they are doing. When he recognizes a winery in this area he has thought about it.
We have been making wine for almost 30 years. We have been using properly grown organic and now biodynamic fruit because we believe that it’s better. We trust grapes grown that way. We use the natural yeast that are on the skins for the fermentations because nothing has been introduced into the vineyard that will inhibit or lessen them. We don’t manipulate the must with sulfur dioxide, genetically selected yeasts, yeast nutrients, stabilizers, water, acid additions or deacidification, we don’t add or take out anything from the grapes, must or wine. We do this because it makes better wines and is in keeping in the tradition and values of pure foods. Organic and biodynamic practices are not marketing tools but are for quality. Monty understands and also understands how hard it is to do this. When Monty chose us for this section it was done deliberately and carefully.
Looking over the names of the “Greatest Wine Producers” is a roster of some of the finest wine producers in the world, regardless of organic or biodynamic practices. The same holds for the “Greatest-Quality Wines”. This is a great honor and recognition of our efforts.
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Posted
by Adam Morganstern
on Dec 9, 2008
in Features
The 2009 Wine Report by Tom Stevenson is out. Monty Waldin reports on organic and biodynamic wines for this yearly publication and here are his top ten lists:
Greatest Wine Producers
1. Domaine Leroy (burgundy, France)
2. Domaine Marcel Deiss (Alsace, France)
3. Domaine Zind Humbrecht (Alsace, France)
4. Ferme de la Sansonniere/Marc Angeli (Loire, France)
5. Domaine Huet (Loire, France)
6. Nikolaihof (Wachau, Austria)
7. Domaine Leflaive (Burgundy, France)
8. Domaine des Epeneaux/Comte Armand (Burgundy, France)
9. Coturri (Sonoma Valley, California)
10. Emiliana Organico (Central Valley, Chile)
Greatest-Quality Wines
1. Clos de la Roche 2000 Domaine Leroy, Bundy, France £415
2. Alsace Grand Cru Altenberg de Berghwim 2000 Domaine Marcel Deiss, Alsace, France £61
3. Alsace Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Trie Speciale SGN 2002 Domaine Zind Humbrecht, Alsace, France £93 per half bottle
4. Zinfandel Estate Vineyards 2005 Coturri, Sonoma Valley, California US $32.00
5. Steiner Hund Riesling Reserve 2001 Nikolaihof, Austria £40
6. The McNab 2003 Bonterra Vineyards Mendocino. California US $36.99
7. Chevalier-Montrachet 2000 Domaine Leflaive, Burgundy, France £310
8. G. Colchagua Valley Tinto 2003, Emiliana Oraganico, Central Valley, Chile CLP 48,500
9. Fonseca Terra Prima Ruby Port NV, Fladgate Partnership. Portugal £13.80
10. Alsace Riesling Grand Cru Pfingstberg 2006 Domaine Zusslin, Alsace, France £26.50
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[youtube:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-ospovGXQo 300 250]
Richard Sanford of Alma Rosa Winery gives a tour of his plan room. This series of videos is brought to us by Deborah Gavito of Counter Restaurant.
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