Your Guide to Organic, Biodynamic and Natural Wine


A Red and a Rosé from Austria

Weingut Michlits, a certified Demeter biodynamic wine estate, crafts wines that are lovely and interesting to drink. They are also a little quirky and offbeat, going beyond terroir and, in the case of the red, into lesser-known grape varietals.

For a wonderful liquid summer wine repast, try the 2006 Frizzante. It is made from 100% estate grown organic Pinot Noir grapes, with bubbles a little under a champagne level, but noticeable and refreshing. The pale, straw color does not have the depth of a rosé from Provence, but there are complex flavors and lots of citrus. The nose has a hint of fruit and flowers like violets. You know it’s a rosé and it’s summer.

At 11% alcohol, Frizzante is a wonderful wine to drink at a picnic in the country or on a terrace overlooking the sea. Pairs very well with fruit, cheese and bread. Definitely a good choice for a responsible summer tonic.

On the other hand, the Weingut Michlits Blaufrankisch is completely different. This varietal grown throughout Eastern Europe traces its roots back to the 10th century when it was thought to be a Gamay clone. Subsequent DNA analysis has shown this not to be the case. Blaufrankisch is a late ripening grape, rich in tannins. True to its type, our 2006 had a deep ruby color, lots if spice, and smooth tannins. The body was full yet the fruit restrained, so that it was not a fruit bomb loaded with sugars. There was old world quietness, a studied restraint to the wine. One could imagine Freud having a glass in a mahogany paneled study in downtown Vienna. The wine opened up immediately and lost a bit of its aroma after being in the glass for 20 minutes. It became smooth without being dull but its spicy bite diminished.

It is always fun to drink uncommon varietals; they educate your palette and extend your taste range. Try this wine with a stew or a roast chicken.

Congratulations to Prescott Wines Inc. in New York for finding these lovely biodynamic beauties and bringing them to America.