Last week the American Cheese Society (ACS) held its annual conference in Chicago, celebrating the organization’s 25th anniversary. (The existence of such a society confounded many of my friends: you’re going to a cheese conference? American cheese?). Founded in 1983 by a gaggle of “academics and hippie goat people” the society has since grown to 1,400 members, including cheesemakers, retailers, distributors, educators and enthusiasts. Its mission is to promote an understanding and awareness of artisanal, farmstead and specialty cheeses made in the U.S. and Canada. This year there were over 800 people in attendance, and I was floored by the passion and depth of flavor on exhibit. We’re not talking Kraft singles here, people, we’re talking incredible farmstead cheeses made around the corner by producers hell-bent on promoting sustainability, community and local food systems.
A highlight of the conference was the chance to meet and speak with the cheesemakers, who, like most winemakers, are skilled farmers and artisans with a deep love for their craft. But the cheesemakers in the US haven’t yet received the same level of recognition or acclaim as their grape-growing friends. They face a vat of challenges (the need for a strong industry identity, lack of government support, increasing costs, seasonality and the perishable nature of their product, to name a few), and have to sway shoppers away from the less expensive (and, may I inject, lifeless) industrial stuff lining grocery shelves on the one hand, and the recognized European labels on the other hand. It’s like convincing consumers from a decade or two ago to try a present day Russian River Valley Pinot Noir or Finger Lakes Riesling instead of their standby two-buck-chuck or French Bordeaux.
But to taste is to believe. And taste I did. While an early departure meant that I had to miss the Award Ceremony (which judged 1,149 cheese entries from 181 producers in 30 states and 3 Canadian provinces!) and the Festival of Cheese (where literally over 1,000 cheeses were on display for sampling!), I still managed to savor more than my fair share of spectacular cheese. And I have no doubt American cheesemakers will soon see the spotlight they deserve. I’ve listed below just a light dusting of some cross-country highlights. I’d love to hear about your local favorites.
Beehive Cheese Co., Uintah, UT Full Moon
Unpasteurzed cow’s milk aged 3 to 6 months. Pure, pastoral flavor with a buttery start and slightly sharp finish. Try their Coffee and Lavendar rubbed cheese as well; a bit crazy on the palate but surprisingly balanced and certainly interesting.
Cowgirl Creamery, Point Reyes Station, CA MT TAM
Triple cream made from organic milk. My notes read “I could bathe in this cheese” (alright, I admit, this was after a glass of wine). Sumptuous and yet delicate with a hint of mushrooms and a creamy yet firm texture.
Cypress Grove Chevre, Arcata, CA Fromage Blanc
While you can’t beat their Humboldt Fog and Purple Haze, I swooned over the Fromage Blanc. Such purity and simplicity with a flavor that is as fresh as spring.
Old Chatham Sheepherding Company, Old Chatham, NY Hudson Valley Camembert Square
Blend of sheep’s milk, cow’s milk and cow’s cream. Very sexy and lush with just enough backbone to stand up to a good red wine. Humane certified production. Their delicious sheep’s milk maple yogurt is also a must-try.
Otter Creek Organic Farm, Black Earth, WI Seasonal Cheddar
Raw cow’s milk cheddar from pasture-raised cows. Each season produces cheeses with slightly different flavors and aromas according to the changing flora and fat content of the cows. The Spring Cheddar is mild with a slight floral undertone and a smooth curd.
Prairie Fruits Farm, Champaign, IL Angel Food
Bloomy rind, made with goat milk from their own herd. Luscious and gooey in a Camembert style and yet light on the palate—well deserving of its name. Seasonal production and local distribution only.
Sweet Grass Dairy, Thomasville, GA Thomasville Tomme
Raw cow’s milk from pasture-raised cows. Crowd pleaser with buttery flavor and hint of sweetness.
Uplands Cheese Company, Dodgeville, WI Pleasant Ridge Reserve
One of my new favorites. Unpasteurized cow’s milk from pasture-raised cows, with a gruyère style. The 9-month old has a nutty flavor with notes of dried fruit, while the 14-month old has a deeper complexity with aromas of caramel and some crystallization in texture.
The relentless re-conquest of the New York City’s frontier continues. To someone who pioneered SoHo in 1973, and Tribeca two years later, visiting the relentless energy being showered on outer Brooklyn is very familiar; forsaken industrial neighborhoods, blighted with vehicular based industries and amenities, are given a dose of pedestrian reclamation. SoHo 1973 pre-Dean and Deluca, is now Bushwick 2008 post-Robertas.
Patrick Martins, ex capo of Slow Food U.S.A., and now co-founder of Heritage Foods U.S.A. has become an acolyte of Roberta’s. He has taken a shine to the place calling it “more than a restaurant, it’s a movement.” Thus, when the Heritage Foods staff of Sara and Heather invited me out for a meal at Roberta’s I was quick to say yes.
But first the wine. Roberta’s does not yet have a sprits license so it was BYOOW time. We had another task to do before Roberta’s that brought us to South Street Seaport, so a stop at Pasanella and Son wine store was in order. The charismatic owner and his helpful staff helped us identify several organic wines that were potential pairs with pizza.
Roberta’s has the feel of a reclaimed industrial space. An open kitchen with pizza oven greets you when you walk in the door. Walking thru the long open space takes you to a garden out back that must be sat in to be believed. It is enclosed by a cement wall that separates it from the a parking lot. Ala Beirut, the garden also boasts a 1964 Mercedes 160 in need of a total restoration. Bushwick and Roberta’s clientele are young, just like SoHo’s was before the Armani Exchanges arrived. So in the sprit of youth and exploration we ordered a lot of great food and opened our organic wines.
First off was a 2004 Cantina Zaccagnini Riserva Montepulciano D’abruzzo from Wines Unlimited Inc. I thought it was very fruity and ripe, ripe, ripe; super dry and tart on the tongue. It tasted of deep leather and violets, a real nectar of ruby red fruit. Brandon Hoy, one of Roberta’s owners, thought this Italian red to have nice acidity, and to be refreshing like lemonade; he “really liked this wine.” Tristian Steinberg, who is a restaurant and stage designer and designed Roberta’s, was also positive – “tastes great with lots of forward grape flavor very refreshing, hints of herbs.” Patrick Martins rounded out the favorable reviews – “feels like it’s high in anti-oxidants like blackberries and blueberries very full bodied even though it’s low tannins…good acidity.”
The food kept coming. Innovative pizzas and salads and savory dishes like, salads with Gorgonzola cheese, hen of the woods mushrooms and a skirt steak. We opened our second bottle – an Adanti Nispero Rosso Dell’ Umbria. 85% Sangiovese and 15% Merlot. Imported by Summa Vitis Inc. a Matthew Fioretti selection. I thought this one was light and a little sweet with high notes of ripe fruit, not very complex; would not clash or overpower food and would go well with cheese and fruit. Brandon on the other hand was far more complementary – “ a nice spicy wine with good character a long finish, lots of interest, I would drink it late at night.” Tristian thought it “smooth, round good acid and a little smoky hints of plum and pomegranate.” Patrick was sure it would go well with hot dogs, BBQ and smoked sausage; it was round in flavor if not very complex.
We tried some more wines that night but with the conversation and lots of others joining us at the table recording the proceedings became futile. If you want a culinary, community and real-estate adventure go buy as many bottles of organic wine as you can and take the L train to the Morgan Street stop and go try Roberta’s.
Take advantage of summer’s vibrant organic produce with this easily adaptable dish (great for outdoor dining or potlucks). Sweet roasted red peppers are stuffed with nutty barley, sautéed vegetables, fresh herbs, pine nuts, balsamic and Parmigiano, then finished off with an oozing layer of melted Comté cheese (mozzarella would also do the trick). Serve the stuffed peppers as an appetizer or as a main course with a light to medium style red.
Serves: 2 as main course, 4 as appetizer Prep time: 45 minutes (includes cooking barley and roasting peppers) Cooking time: 15 minutes
1/2 cup pearled barley
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for brushing pan
2 red bell peppers
1/2 small yellow or sweet onion, diced
1/2 yellow bell pepper, seeds and ribs discarded, diced
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
3 cloves garlic
1 very small or 1/2 medium zucchini, diced
3 tablespoons pine nuts
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons mixed chopped fresh herbs, such as basil, rosemary and oregano
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano cheese
1 large egg
1/2 cup (heaping) shredded Comté cheese
In a medium saucepan, combine 1/2 cup pearled barley with 1 1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer and cook 15-17 minutes, or until water is just absorbed. Transfer to a large bowl.
Preheat the oven to 425˚F. Brush a small pan or casserole with oil. Cut the red peppers in half lengthwise (through the stem). Remove and discard the stems, seeds and ribs. Bake cut side down for 15 minutes; turn the peppers over and cook an additional 15 minutes. Set aside (keep the oven on).
Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions, yellow pepper, and a pinch of salt and pepper and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the zucchini and cook 3 minutes. Add the garlic and pine nuts and cook, stirring, until fragrant, 1-2 minutes. Stir in the balsamic vinegar and cook 30 seconds. Scrape the mixture into the bowl with the barley. Add the chopped herbs, grated Parmigiano, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix in the egg.
Sprinkle the pepper halves lightly with salt and pepper, then divide the barley filling among the halves. Do Ahead:The peppers can be stuffed one day in advance then covered and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before baking.
Sprinkle the shredded Comté evenly over the top of the peppers and bake for 15 minutes, or until the cheese is melted and lightly toasted in spots. Serve warm.
Heritage Foods represents artisanal family farmers raising heirloom breeds of turkeys, chickens, pigs, lambs and produce in traditional ways on family farms. These products have an inherent flavor missing from factory-farmed foods. Their meats are found in some of New York’s finest restaurants. Explore their site, read how Heritage Foods came about, and check out the chefs that are part of this cycle of taste. Get to know the farmers devoted to saving heirloom breeds.
The bounty of Mendocino County’s organic farms, vineyards and coastal waters will be featured at the 4th Annual Pure Mendocino Celebration August 22-24, 2008. Proceeds of the three-day event will benefit the nationally recognized Cancer Resource Centers of Mendocino County (CRCMC). “These events are all about healthy living and sharing the sense of joy and well-being that comes from helping to fund care while sharing foods and wines that are created with the greatest respect for the land and the people who live and work here,” said Sara O’Donnell, Executive Director of CRCMC. “Join us!”
Friday, August 22nd, 5-9 p.m.
The weekend kicks off with an all-organic dinner at Dark Horse Ranch, a Biodynamic® farm owned by Paul Dolan, owner of Paul Dolan Vineyards and co-chair of Pure Mendocino, together with Sara O’Donnell. The multi-course meal, prepared by Chef Craig Strattman of Patrona Bistro in Ukiah, showcases organic ingredients and wines from Mendocino County’s diverse growing regions. Tickets for the Dinner are $135 per person or $1250 for a table of eight.
Saturday, August 23rd, 4-7:30 p.m.
Local chefs, organic wineries, and purveyors of organic and wild-crafted foods gather on the vineyard patio of Parducci Wine Cellars for an evening of food and wine sampling, cooking demonstrations, live entertainment, and information about sustainable living. During the event, guests are invited to bid on silent auction items including select wines and local, artisanal products. Tickets are $40 per person or $350 for a block of ten.
Sunday, August 24th, Tour 10 a.m., Picnic 12-2 p.m.
Co-sponsored by Ukiah Natural Foods Co-op, the family-friendly Pure Mendocino Farm Tour and Picnic begins with a free tour of McFadden Farm and Vineyard in Potter Valley. Visitors will experience, first hand, sustainable farming practices in operation. Following the tour, the weekend concludes with an organic picnic accompanied by live, local music. Tickets are $15 per person. Children under five are free.
About the Cancer Resource Centers of Mendocino County
With offices in Ukiah and the coastal village of Mendocino, CRCMC helps cancer patients, their families and caregivers, with a full range of support services including assistance with formulating care plans, advocacy for benefits, support groups, counseling, and transportation. In 2007, CRCMC founder Sara O’Donnell was honored by the Robert Wood Johnson Foundation as one of 10 outstanding individuals, across America and Puerto Rico, to receive the Foundation’s 2007 Community Health Leadership Program Award.
For information and reservations please visit www.puremendocino.org or call CRCMC toll free at 800.449.6483.
Last week the American Cheese Society (ACS) held its annual conference in Chicago, celebrating the organization’s 25th anniversary. (The existence of such a society confounded many of my friends: you’re going to a cheese conference? American cheese?). Founded in 1983 by a gaggle of “academics and hippie goat people” the society has since grown to 1,400 members, including cheesemakers, retailers, distributors, educators and enthusiasts. Its mission is to promote an understanding and awareness of artisanal, farmstead and specialty cheeses made in the U.S. and Canada. This year there were over 800 people in attendance, and I was floored by the passion and depth of flavor on exhibit. We’re not talking Kraft singles here, people, we’re talking incredible farmstead cheeses made around the corner by producers hell-bent on promoting sustainability, community and local food systems. 
