Ditch The Heavyweight Glass Bottles

Posted by Adam Morganstern on Apr 20, 2008 in Editorials

I’ll be honest; I wouldn’t buy a wine that was contained in anything else but a glass bottle. Bag in Box? Nada. PET bottle? Irredeemably naff. Tetrapak? That’s for milk.

But it’s time to fight the creeping tendency towards bottling wine in ever thicker and heavier glass. The average wine bottle in the UK weighs 500g and the lightest 300g. Of course Champagne bottles are far heavier, but at least they have the excuse that they have to have extra strength to cope with 6 atmospheres of pressure!

I regularly encounter glass wine bottles that are in the 800-900g category and the worst offenders are now easily over the kilo mark. Supposedly, this is all about marketing, about creating difference and recognition, of shouting “hey! I’m a super premium and super lovely luxury product!” However I refuse to believe that anyone is so stupid that they will choose a wine primarily based on how heavy it is in their shopping basket. Moreover, I’ve tried to correlate bottle weight, wine quality and price at a number of Trade tastings attended over the past year and can now report: there is none.

Yes, glass is 100% recyclable, but the UK just can’t use it all up and the extra weight of these über-bottles adds cost to the product, uses more raw materials and makes a bigger carbon footprint too. Then they don’t fit on merchants shelves and won’t fit in my bottle racks either.

I’ve also heard other arguments advanced for thicker heavier glass, such as more protection from breakage. Guys, a 300g glass bottle can have enough structural integrity so that it is no more statistically likely to break. Or this one – “well, heavier glass is more opaque, better for ageing and protection from UV.” Umm, that’s surely about colour, not weight and the majority of wine bought is consumed quickly after purchase anyway.

And the culprits? Well I originally thought that Californian excess and Italian design flair would make these countries the worst offenders but in fact those responsible for these steroidal excesses can be found globally. One of the saddest findings is that some organic and biodynamic producers are also guilty and you’d think they’d know better.

It’s great to see that the WSTA and WRAP have just hosted a London forum on improving company co-operation to use lighter weight bottles, as clearly this is a wasteful supply chain issue where producers and retailers need to change. Given that single estates in particular prefer to bottle at source rather than ship in bulk then moving to lighter bottles is straightforward and makes a lot of sense.

I also think that Wine Educators can play a part – in consumer education yes, but also by taking this up at Trade tastings with merchants, importers and producers. Perhaps if our voice is loud enough they will listen.

In fact I raised this recently with a Californian producer known for his 17% Zinfandels after I found I did not have the musculature to lift a 750 ml bottle approaching 2kg in weight. As the contents were invisible I was surprised to find the bottle nearly empty. So heavy and over-engineered it was that it looked like it should be used at Sellafield to contain spent nuclear fuel. Suffice to say I’m not on his Christmas card list anymore. Actually, given the contents…

Mongrana, Querciabella, Toscana, Italy 2006

Posted by Paul Howard on Apr 20, 2008 in Reviews

Querciabella is a small Italian property based at Greve in the heart of Chianti. Their considerable reputation rests upon a range of superb hand-crafted biodynamic wines (see my Querciabella review). These include the Super-Tuscan Bátar, Palafreno and Camartina plus a delicious Chianti Classico DOCG.

Owner Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni has expanded by planting a new vineyard in the Maremma – a low lying area about 50 miles away on the Tuscan coast. Like other Tuscan winemakers he saw the vinous potential of this region where land is available at more affordable prices than in Chianti. Consequently, Querciabella has 36 hectares growing Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot near the town of Albarese.

2005 was the first vintage made from these vines, christened Mongrana after Ariosto’s epic poem of 1516 called Orlando Furioso. The review here is of the second, brand new 2006 vintage just released.

Mongrana is roughly 50% Sangiovese with equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. These young vines are of course biodynamically farmed and yields are restricted to 45-50 hl/ha. The grapes are hand picked and then fermented separately in temperature-controlled stainless steel before maturation in cement vats.

Just a small part of the crop is matured in oak barriques for 3 months and this is added back at final blending. The barriques are not used to add oak flavour which would only mask the youthful fruit qualities. Instead they introduce a little more maturation from exposure to oxygen, so bringing extra complexity to the final blend.

Given that this is a very young wine, Mongrana was decanted for an hour. A dark cherry coloured core and a purplish rim show the evidence of youth.

Decanting really helps open up the nose – there are typically Italian aromas; sour red cherries accompanied by dried herbs and spices.

The palate shows plenty of juicy fresh acidity. Initially cherry flavours are to the fore then hints of cassis and damson appear alongside cloves and cinnamon. Final hints of earth and almonds on the finish make this typically Italianate and moreish.

There’s a medium body and an elegant balance of acid, alcohol and fruit. It is refreshing to see a modern wine released at a very palatable 13% alcohol and while the fruit is relatively straightforward it has a racy exuberance so typical of young vines.

Being so young, the tannins are still a little grainy and need a longer to resolve fully. However, there is nothing harsh on offer here and because this is a wine designed to accompany food the tannins play a complementary part. Charcuterie, fillet steak or spinach and ricotta pasta all work well.

This wine will improve over the next couple of years and possibly beyond that. However, I recommend drinking it young while it’s fresh and energetic with food. Querciabella’s other wines are more suitable for bottle ageing.

Mongrana is positioned as the entry-level wine in line up. That shouldn’t put you off as it is a fine introduction at a very sharp price – $17.99/£8.99 is a bargain given the pedigree of this great Tuscan estate.

Wines Of Portugal Tasting

Posted by Adam Morganstern on Apr 16, 2008 in Features

Professional tasting events were more fun when I wasn’t really invited. Before the Organic Wine Journal started, I’d arrange for a pass from a friend in the business and sneak into them. Thousands of bottles opened up and ready to sample – that was a good way to spend the afternoon.

While everyone else was doing the proper tasting, spitting and note taking, I could enjoy a nice glass of whatever seemed good without having to worry about spoiling my palate by the three hundredth glass. The few of us in this mind-set could always spot each other and trade valuable information. “Table 24, purple label, $200 a bottle and they’re almost out.”

Now I’m on the invite list, expected to come away with knowledge and walk out coherently. Yesterday’s Vinportugal event in New York put these new skills to the test. Over 400 wines and Ports is quite the temptation.

While Port gets a lot of attention, I also love Portuguese wines. Crisp, refreshing whites and earthy reds made from grapes you haven’t heard of. That’s a good thing. Organic and Biodynamic winemaking is all about the right grape in the right place. Don’t look for a Cabernet Sauvignon from a region that shouldn’t be growing it.

Only one certified organic winery was at this event. Quinto do Paraíso took a small vineyard in the Dão region and decided to go organic eight years ago. After five years of conversion they got their certification and have been producing organic wine for the last three years. They had three excellent wines we will be reviewing soon; Casa dos Gaios 2005 (70% Tinta Roriz grapes and 30% Touriga Nacional), Casa dos Gaios Reserva 2004 (70% Touriga Nacional and 30% Tinta Roriz) and Grande Escolha Casa dos Gaios 2004 (100% Touriga Nacional).

From the conversations I had with other wineries, it seemed the majority of them have at least discussed using organic methods. Caves do Solar de São Domingos is planning on turning one of their vineyards organic in five years. Others said they investigated it and were told they would never be able to make good wines organically in their particular locations. That always seems to be the consensus from people who sell pesticides.

As I was walking out, one distributor saw my badge and said “Ugh, organic wines are horrible.” He poured me a glass from a double-size bottle. “This will retail for three dollars. It’s going to be bigger than Yellow Tail.” Well, good luck with that.

Herbed Ricotta Dumplings with Lemon Brown Butter

Posted by Nicki Sizemore on Apr 16, 2008 in Recipes

Also known as gnudi, these ricotta dumplings are “little pillows of love,” as a good friend lately proclaimed. Rich in flavor, yet brightened by a hint of lemon and fresh herbs, they make for a gorgeous first or main course (and best of all, they’re thrown together in under 30 minutes). Pair with a light style red or citrusy white.

Serves: 4
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes

• 2 large cage-free eggs
• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
• Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
• 1 pound fresh ricotta (scant 2 cups)
• 3/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, plus additional for serving
• 1 garlic clove, smashed and minced to a paste
• 2 teaspoons finely chopped herbs, such as thyme, chives, tarragon and mint
• 1 1/4 cups unbleached flour, plus additional for dusting
• 2 teaspoons organic olive oil
• 8 tablespoons organic unsalted butter
• Juice of 1/2 lemon
• Salt and freshly ground pepper

1. Line a large sheet pan with parchment paper and dust it lightly with flour. Put a large pot of salted water over medium-high heat to come to a boil.
2. Beat the eggs with the salt and nutmeg. Mix in the ricotta, Parmigiano Reggiano, garlic and herbs. Gently stir in the flour to form a soft dough. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and divide it into 4 pieces. Roll each piece into a 1-inch rod, then cut each rod with a sharp knife or pastry cutter into 1-inch pieces.
3. Line another sheet pan with parchment paper. Cook half of the dumplings in the boiling water, stirring occasionally, until cooked through, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the dumpling to the parchment-lined sheet pan and toss with 1 teaspoon of the olive oil. Repeat with the rest of the dumplings.
4. In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Cook the butter, swirling the pan occasionally, until nutty brown and fragrant. Stir in the lemon juice (the butter will bubble and sizzle). Slide the dumplings into the pan and cooked until just coated and warmed through. Remove the pan from the heat and season to taste with salt and pepper. Shower the dumplings with freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano and serve immediately.

Filling Cars Instead of Bellies

Posted by Nicki Sizemore on Apr 11, 2008 in Features

In his recent blog, “Stating the Obvious”, Jonathan Russo writes about how some things that seem so obviously unsustainable and potentially disastrous, can take years to click in the national consciousness—often only after it’s too late (i.e. global warming, subprime mortgage loans, pesticide impacts on health and the environment…). This brought to mind one more “smoking gun” to add to the tally, corn ethanol.

What has been considered the green solution to our oil crisis is being exposed as the exact opposite—a muddy mess that is causing more environmental damage than the oil it’s replacing. Backed by government subsidies and billions of corporate dollars, the race to produce ethanol is resulting in the conversion of vast swathes of natural land—from Iowa, to Indonesia, to Brazil—for fuel production, destroying carbon-storing forests and grasslands, and causing food costs to skyrocket as harvests are being used to fill our cars instead of our bellies. Time Magazine’s cover article this week by Michael Grunwald terms it a “clean energy scam” and New York Times Op-Ed Columnist Paul Krugman states bluntly, “people are starving in Africa so that American politicians can court votes in farm states.”

The implications of corn ethanol production on our agricultural policies make my palms sweat (and not just because of rising global temperatures). Government subsidies for ethanol production support the prevailing monoculture mentality, with its reliance upon pesticides, synthetic fertilizers, genetically modified seeds, and large machinery (and, ironically, its large carbon output). In the April edition of Gourmet, Sam Hurst (“Betting the Farm”) paints an unsettling picture of the South Dakota plains, where traditional cattle and wheat production is being converted to corn production—of the genetically modified and pest resistant variety—for cattle feed, high fructose corn syrup and ethanol, without regard to the inevitable erosion of the thin topsoil or to the effects of pesticides on the health of the land, farmer or consumer.

Meanwhile, small family farms that employ sustainable and organic methods which benefit the soil, produce little (if any) carbon output, and give forth food that is safe and healthy, continue to be neglected by government subsidies and supports.

Bio-fuels may prove to be a very good thing if we can find a way to produce them efficiently using non-arable land. In the meantime, however, we need to reconsider the benefits, and costs, of corn ethanol—hopefully before reaping more harm to the environment and to the world’s hungry.

Domaine Carneros Goes Organic

Posted by Adam Morganstern on Apr 10, 2008 in News

Domaine Carneros, one of the leading sparkling wine houses in California, has just received organic certification of all its Estate vineyards by the California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF). The certification gives the winery the distinction of becoming the first sparkling winery in the United States with all estate vineyards certified. The green seal of approval was a long time coming for the winery whose sustainable farming practices date back to its inception in the late 1980s.

“We’ve always taken an active role to preserve the health of the land,” says Domaine Carneros President and Chief Winemaker, Eileen Crane. “The organic certification is the result of years of hard work and dedication to the land, and we’re proud to finally reach this point in our farming practices.” Crane has kept the winery’s organic farming practices under the radar. “Our first commitment is to produce the best wines and we believe that you achieve this through healthy vines, becoming organic was a natural evolution for us from the start,” says the winemaker who spearheaded the winery’s green movement beginning almost twenty years ago.

Organic certification by the CCOF is a three-year process that the winery began in 2005, but evolved long before then. Domaine Carneros has never used insecticides. In the mid 90′s Domaine Carneros tried organic farming in some blocks of new vineyards. Over the next 10 years inorganic fertilizers were replaced with organic substitutes. Vineyard equipment was purchased to control the weeds, without use of herbicides. By 2005 they had their first year of completely organic farming, with all of Domaine Carneros’ 350 acres of vineyards being managed organically.

In addition to Domaine Carneros’ commitment to environmentally friendly growing practices, in 2003 the winery installed the largest photovoltaic solar collection system then existent on any winery in the world. Other natural energy facilities at the winery include lighting by skylights, night cooling systems to maintain cellar temperature and building into the earth for insulation. The vineyard also has owl boxes placed in all four vineyards, which are inhabited and used as rodent management.

Domaine Carneros is located in the picturesque Carneros AVA region known as its own appellation that shares a portion of both Sonoma and Napa Counties. The Carneros region is best known for its cool climate and maritime influences making it the perfect terroir to grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, two of the essential varietals in the award-winning sparkling wines from Domaine Carneros. The winery produces a super premium vintage Brut, a luxury Blanc de Blancs called Le Rêve, a Brut Rosé called Cuvée de la Pompadour and three Estate Pinot Noirs: Avant-Garde, Domaine Carneros Pinot Noir and The Famous Gate. Domaine Carneros was founded in 1987 by Champagne Taittinger Chairman Claude Taittinger, along with importer Kobrand Corporation, with a mission to produce some of the finest sparkling and still wines that reflect the Carneros terroir and the spirit of their French ownership.

Raw Cheese Power

Posted by Anne Greenwald on Apr 9, 2008 in Cheese, Food

A great cheese should have depth, uniqueness, and a sense of humor. Raw milk cheeses are epitomic of these attributes, as they not only outshine pasteurized cheeses in flavor, but are more as nature intended. Just like a fine wine, raw milk captures the essence of the geographical region from which the animals ate their grass and feed, producing a specific and authentic flavor specific to that region, known as terroir.

Unfortunately, the FDA prohibits the sale of raw milk cheeses aged 60 days or less in the United States, from fear that raw milk cheeses contain bacteria which can cause salmonella. This only adds to raw milk’s notoriety. Now, raw milk cheese has become the cheese you wouldn’t want to bring home to your parents. It’s dangerously sexy. You can find them if you know the right people, but I’m not mentioning names here.

The FDA’s regulation becomes problematic when dealing with fresh, young cheeses which rely heavily on the quality of milk used. Pasteurization leaves cheese with a cooked, less potent flavor. Plainly put, pasteurized cheeses can be boring. It’s like buying the Greatest Hits album of your favorite band instead of the original albums you loved.

Still, there are exciting cheeses that do meet the age requirement. The Queso Clara, a raw goat’s milk, is the “little black dress” of cheese; no closet or cheese plate should be without it. While Spain excels in sheep’s milk cheeses, such as the Manchego, their goat’s milk cheeses, while less mainstream, are equally reputable. The Clara’s texture is dry and a bit flaky. Its rind is rustic and gray and the flavor is exciting. Your taste buds are greeted with an herbal, complex tang typical of a gammy goat. Then, a fruity and sweet essence melts upon the tongue, transforming suddenly and forcefully into an electric bang, where the raw power transforms from subtle to blatant, and the soil from which the goats ate their fresh grass is pronounced. The finish is earthy, with caramel notes, and it bids your mouth goodbye like a gallant lover, leaving you satiated yet wanting more. When eating the Queso Clara, I like to picture the little goats lazily munching on green grass, possibly retiring for a siesta after their large lunch. It’s up to every cheese eater to conjure their own fantasies; some like to picture the milking process, but those are generally men looking for a mother figure. Try serving with a warmed baguette and crisp green grapes, or drizzled with a bit of raw honey for a truly decadent experience.

The Ossau-Iraty is a raw sheep’s milk cheese that is not only distinct and challenging, but seems to be touched with the supernatural. This cheese was my first love. Originated in the West Pyrenees, Ossau-Iraty, whose name “Ossau” comes from a river and valley in Bearn, France, is made exclusively from the milk of ewes of the local breed known as the Basco-Bearnaise or Manech. This breed is characterized by their black or red heads. In this case, blondes don’t always have more fun. After the cheese is removed from their special caves they are hand rubbed with salt, and then later rubbed with brine-soaked cloth for a period of four months. The final result is a nutty yet fruity cheese, subtle without lacking tenacity; a cheese I would describe as voluptuous. Superb paired with olives, prosciutto, or fruit; not to mention a sophisticated grilled cheese on French baguette. As for wine, a Sauvignon Blanc or a simple Chardonnay would make a first-rate combination.

Anne Greenwald works the cheese counter at Whole Foods Market, Columbus Circle, in New York City. She invites you to stop in and try some raw milk cheeses with her, including some of her other favorites: the Point Reyes Blue, from California, the Rolf Beeler Gruyere, from Switzerland, and the Gabietou, from France.

Clos Montirius Vacqueyras 2003

Posted by Rachael Lowe on Apr 9, 2008 in Reviews

I found this biodynamic wine at Bar Boloud in New York City, while dining on pâtés and blood sausage. Rarely does a wine from the Vacqueyras region of the southern Rhône Valley embody such a degree of complexity. A blend of Grenache and Syrah, Clos Montirius evokes aromas of macerated cherries and developed red currants, intertwined with a distinct barnyardy edge. The earthy, leathery undertones support the wine, add depth and compensate for a slight astringency on the nose.

On the palate there are notes of cassis and spice, and the wine drinks slightly “hot” (higher in alcohol) due to the excessively warm vintage in which it was produced. Yet, the well balanced tannins even out the fruit and alcohol to achieve a wine that is palate and food friendly. It’s easy on the wallet as well — the average retail price is $22. It pairs well with game, such as squab or venison, but can be enjoyed on its own or with a hard cheese.