After receiving their organic certification, Domaine Carneros President and Chief Winemaker Eileen Crane spoke with the Organic Wine Journal about the transition and the history behind it.
Organic Wine Journal: What sparked the interest in going organic?
Eileen Crane: Our vineyard manager has been with us a number of years. He had a very naturalistic approach, and early on tried to eliminate as much harmful chemicals as possible. We started looking at going organic in the early 90’s. We had a small new vineyard and said let’s try doing it organically. It was harder to be organic back then. Now there’s more people involved and it’s easier to share information.
Domaine Carneros has a history of doing things conscientiously. In 2003 we built our new Pinot Noir facility with solar power. We use skylights, insulation rather than refrigeration. It’s ingrained in us. You want to be a part of something that’s not just for the moment. It takes care of the earth and our employees. We want people to enjoy their jobs and the vines.
We thought it would make a difference, but the difference is phenomenal. The intensity. The balance. The vines look happy, they have this great vibrance.
OWJ: Was the certification process difficult?
EC: It wasn’t difficult at all. What we were asked to do made sense to us. In fact, it was really easy and reasonable.
OWJ: Why do you think there’s an image that it’s hard to do?
EC: It’s resistance to anything new. It’s also more expensive. It adds about $200 per acre to farm organically. But that may go down. When you start doing something you’re not as efficient. The more you do it the more effective you get at it.
We have mealy bugs, so everyone said you’ve got to use these heavy duty chemicals. Our vineyard manager noticed chickens like to eat these bugs so we got some chickens. Now, of course, we have to protect the chickens from the coyotes. If you think outside the box, some experiments might not work out. But you learn from them what the next step should be. Organic farming is at that stage. We’re still experimenting.
OWJ: Will organics play into your marketing?
EC: Some people want to know if you’re farming organically. There are restaurants that let you know on the wine list. There’s a desire from consumers to know, so you have to get the information out there. We didn’t do this to attract customers, though. We thought we would make better wine this way.
OWJ: Will “organic” be on your label?
EC: Not yet.
OWJ: There are many wine drinkers who will be happy to have another organic sparkling wine for their meals.
EC: Yes, though I suggest before dinner, not after. Sparking wine was created in the mid 1600’s. There were sugars from the new world, and they were using it everywhere, even to brush their teeth. They got carried away and made it a sweet wine and served it in small glasses at the end of a meal. Some continue to do that, although most are dry and are better at the beginning of a meal.
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