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Posts made in March, 2008
Posted
by Adam Morganstern
on Mar 28, 2008
in News
A study by the European Pesticide Action Network (PAN) found 100% of conventional wines contained pesticides, with one bottle containing ten different types. In all, 24 different contaminants were found, including five classified as being carcinogenic, mutagenic, reprotoxic or endocrine disrupting by the European Union.
“The presence of pesticides in European wines is a growing problem,” said Elliott Cannell of PAN Europe. “Many grape farmers are abandoning traditional methods of pest control in favour of using hazardous synthetic pesticides. This trend has a direct impact on the quality of European wines. In two thirds of cases the pesticide residues identified in this study relate to chemicals only recently adopted into mainstream grape production in the EU.”
Forty bottles of wine (representing wineries from France, Germany, Austria, Italy, Portugal, South Africa, Australia and Chile) were sent to commercial laboratories for testing. 34 of the samples were from conventional wineries and 6 were organic. Together, the 34 bottles of conventional wine contained 148 pesticide residues. All 34 bottles contained at least one pesticide, with the average being 4. The highest number of residues found in a single bottle was 10.
Of the 6 organic bottles, 5 contained no detectable residues. One sample contained a low concentration of pyrimethanil, a possible carcinogen. According to the report, “the presence of pesticide residues in organic wines is rare. Small organic wine producers located in areas of intensive conventional grape production may suffer occasional contamination from neighboring plots.”
In a response to the report, the European Crop Protection Association called the use of pesticides in producing wine grapes “essential and safe.” The EPCA highlighted the fact that the pesticides detected are all authorized for use in the EU, and the residues were found in such minute quantities, “equivalent to one drop of water in an Olympic sized swimming pool,” they are not even remotely close to any level of concern.
The Organic Wine Journal contacted Elliot Cannell in London for further comments on the report and the response by the EPCA.
What surprised you most in your findings?
I was surprised that it was 100% of conventional wines that had pesticide residues. When they tested other fruits and vegetables in the EU it was 50% by comparison.
Anything you expected that wasn’t found?
Five bottles of the organic wine were perfect. Only one bottle had one residue. Since (according to the FIBL study) this was most likely caused by chemicals outside the organic vineyard, I think it shows that even organic farming is endangered by conventional methods.
What is the most important action that needs to be taken now?
On the table right now is a proposal in the EU to eliminate exposure to the 23 worst pesticides. That’s about 5% of those that are allowed to be used currently. It has widespread support, but we’re not celebrating until it’s nailed down into law.
The ECPA says that pesticides are “essential” to winemaking in Europe.
They are the industry lobbyists for pesticides. What is essential is to have a pest management strategy. Otherwise you’re just feeding bugs. Within that, there are different ways to combat the problem. The industry always claims if you ban a small number of pesticides it will be the end of global agriculture.
What about the claim that there are “no recorded instances of health threats”?
There’s a diversity of opinion. You will find scientists who will stake their entire reputation that everything is completely safe, and scientists who say the exact opposite. They found 349 different pesticides in the EU food chain. And 5% of fruits and vegetables tested have 5 or more different pesticide residues. Some of the most common residues found are the most hazardous. I think that’s widespread contamination. I would love to see anyone document that long-term exposure to these chemicals is safe.
They also allege you didn’t test for copper and sulfur, which is used in organic viniculture.
That’s without foundation. We didn’t publish a list of everything we tested for, we only published what we found.
Are pesticides needed to combat climate changes?
As the global ecosystem becomes more and more imbalanced, the last we want to do is crank up the poisons we put into the environment. When someone is sick you want to give them extra care, not make them worse. The idea that we need more poisons in our land and water to help is absurd.
Read the PAN Europe Report and Press Release.
Read the EPCA Response.
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Posted
by Adam Morganstern
on Mar 24, 2008
in Blogs
The mess involved in launching a new website is quickly reflected on your computer desktop. A million file icons spread out all over and you can barely remember what they’re all for, which you really needed and which you meant to delete. Somewhere in the middle, you remember that all the programming in the world is no substitute for content – so you try writing an article – but in the background are all those files reminding you of the chaos underneath. Sure, you can stretch out Microsoft Word to cover everything (not a pretty sight in itself) but it’s only slightly effective, like throwing a blanket over a pile of garbage.
The solution? If you’re thinking it’s time to clean up the desktop, you’re in a different world than me. One project’s mess will soon be replaced by another. Instead, I’ve found another savior. It’s called WriteRoom.
WriteRoom is the simplest of word processors. It fills your entire screen with the background color you choose and then you just type words in this beautiful ethereal space of nothingness. There’s no formatting or styles. No menus of endless options for you to play with. All the other programs have disappeared, leaving just you and your writing.
It used to be interesting to see all the new features Microsoft Word would come out with. Wow, I can add chapter titles now… who cares if I’m only writing one page. Chapter titles are fun, I think I’ll play with that for half an hour. Then I’ll check out that footnote function.
Somewhere along the line, many of us lost track of writing vs. formatting. All the functionality in the world doesn’t mean you actually have a place you enjoy creating. WriteRoom is the computer equivalent of that favorite notebook you used to have. The one that just made you want to take out a pen start writing.
It’s not a selfish program either; it plays well with others. You can take text from other programs (such as your email or even another word processor) transfer it to WriteRoom to work on, and then transfer it back seamlessly. Or you can start in WriteRoom and then export it where you need to.
So, my first blog has nothing to with wine, but everything to do about how I will be writing about wine from now on.
This is a “writing” program. Start using it and you’ll realize the phrase “word processor” has been annoying you for years.
WriteRoom is availble from Hog Bay Sofware.
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Posted
by Adam Morganstern
on Mar 19, 2008
in Travel
DISCOVER ORGANIC WINEMAKING FROM THE MASTERS
Organic wines are the new superstars of the wine world, and for the first time these pioneering winemakers will open their doors, and their cellars, for an unforgettable five-day trip in the heart of beautiful Sonoma, California. Guided by the legendary Tony Coturri, the Organic Winemaking Adventure will offer 10 guests an intimate and authentic look into the philosophies, challenges and pleasures behind this delicious movement.
This tour begins where other wine tours end. Guests will go past the tasting room and through to the winery to work alongside Tony Coturri as well as other acclaimed winemakers at Benziger Family Winery and Grebennifoff Vineyards as they craft their world-famous vintages. They’ll learn about biodynamics from “farmer to the stars” Bob Cannard and harvest grapes with Phil Coturri, Sonoma’s leading organic viticulturist, taking advantage of the beauty and bounty of the season.
After spending days in the stunning countryside and cellars, guests will dine with the winemakers and farmers themselves. They’ll feast on meals from delicious local foods, superb organic and biodynamic wines and stimulating conversation with the men and women who made them.
The Organic Winemaking Adventure is scheduled for October 24-28 and is limited to 10 people. The trip includes lodging, transportation to and from all activities, breakfast, lunch, dinner, wine and intimate access to leading winemakers and viticulturists. Travelers can register for the trip at www.OrganicWineJournal.com in coming weeks.
Tony Coturri has pioneered organic winemaking in Sonoma Valley for over 25 years. His acclaimed wines are crafted without the use of sulfites, yeast cultures, concentrates, water, acids or other manipulations, thus fully expressing the grapes and their terroir. Robert Parker has called his wines “some of the most intriguing wines I’ve ever reviewed.”
For more information, email travel@organicwinejournal.com.
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Posted
by Adam Morganstern
on Mar 19, 2008
in Features
Welcome to the brand new Organic Wine Journal.
It’s been a great first two years. We have readers in over 100 countries. We’ve been written up in The Wall Street Journal, MSNBC, Epicurious.com and Decanter magzine. And, most importantly, we’ve gotten to know some of the greatest winemakers out there.
Our new site is all about content, content, content. We will have regular wine reviews, more interviews with winemakers and chefs, regular bloggers as well as recipes with wine matches.
The improved layout will make it easier to find the articles you’re looking for; whether you want to learn more about wine basics or delve deeper into biodynamics.
We also encourage you to roam through our directory of wineries and get to know the names behind some of the best wines being made today.
As always, we welcome all submissions. Let us know what’s going on in your part of the world of organic wine.
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Posted
by Adam Morganstern
on Mar 19, 2008
in Features
It’s 4 am on Sonoma Mountain and the vineyards are in total darkness. Suddenly an overpowering spotlight illuminates a huge circle in the field. It feels like a scene out of Close Encounters but there is no UFO; just Mike Benziger’s light truck making its way into the vineyards for a 4 am harvest.
According to Mike, “We pick many of our grapes at night. The quality is better. The fruit is cool, plumper and tends not to have dehydration problems. And because they’re cooler, it’s also better from a conservation standpoint. We don’t have to waste power refrigerating.
It may be early in the morning, but there is a Super Bowl rush among the 16 pickers and 16-person support crew. Mike says his job is to “take the frenetic pace and make sure the chaos stays organized. It’s an exciting time. There’s a wave of energy that goes through the vineyard. Wine has an incredible memory and it will remember the energy of that day.”
Following the light truck is another vehicle carrying large bins for the grapes. The support crew wears headlights and sorts through them, removing leaves and bad clusters. “This is the last quality control point before that bin becomes wine. Once they go into the winery that’s what you live with. It’s like a marathon; some grapes only make it 18 miles, some make it the full 26 and cross the finish line.”
All the grapes harvested this morning are Cabernet Franc, and were used to make the 06 Tribute blend. One of the reasons the crew is able to work so fast is that the vineyard has been groomed the day before. The bad fruit has been removed along with leaves and other debris.
Grapes are coming from every angle; over the vines and from workers jumping up from underneath. “A competition forms between the guys to see who works the fastest. Which is great, provided they also work with high quality. These men have all worked for me an average of 13 years. There are no rookies here.”
The number-one job for the cullers is to remove the bad berries first, and then the leaves second. Grapes with sunburned skin, or that are rose colored instead of dark purple or black, are rejected.
Grape clusters are not allowed to by pulled by hand, which would cause juicing before they reach the winery. They are sliced off using sharp knives or cutters. At peak ripeness, the grapes will fall off easily, and great care is given to make sure they wind up in the bins and not on the ground. “The ones with best flavor fall off first.”
Joaquin Corona has worked at Benziger for 22 years, and keeps track of how many grape buckets everyone has collected. Each picker yells out their assigned number every time they deliver a new one.
The same crew that grooms the vineyard is also the one that picks it. Anything that is left on vines makes it into the bucket. “Our guys tell us they would much rather pick at night. It’s easier to work in the cooler temperatures.”
Mike switches from task to task as needed. “My job is to control the energy flow, and maintain the highest quality pace. Each person in charge of making the wine is there to make sure they have the raw materials they need. This is all you’ll get to work with. This is what will be in the bottle and what the customer will taste.”
Patsy Wallace (Mike’s sister) and Dale Wallace, engineer, sort through the grape clusters. “During the picking all your endorphins are going. You’re exhausted afterward, but it’s a good tired.”
The crew heads to another block of the vineyard.
“We always time it so we finish at 8 am. These grapes are certified biodynamic by Demeter, so the winery has to be sterilized the night before they’re processed. We want them to be the first grapes in that day or we have to clean all over again.”
This block of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, overlooking Sonoma Valley, will be picked the next night. “You can see the demand we put on the grapevines to work hard. There’s not a lot of green left. Everything they had they put into those grapes.”
A view from the vineyards down to the winery.
Sterilizing the stainless steel tanks. They are jacketed with foam to conserve energy.
The just-picked Cabernet Franc grapes.
The fruit is put into the destemer.
“This is working on the finest level of detail; berry by berry pruning. One last quality check to remove anything defective. Anything over the edge goes into the wine.”
These grape skins have already gone through fermentation, and are now being pressed to extract more juice. “It’s up to the winemaker if any of the pressed wine goes into the free run. A lot of times the free run can be rich but lack structure. The first pressing can help give form.”
“This is the most traditional form of winemaking, mixing skins and juice together. When grapes first arrive the skin is all white. All color comes from the skin. If mixed too violently the wine tastes bitter. If not mixed enough you lose the character and intensity the grape wanted to give you.”
“The more careful you are in the vineyard, the less winemaking you have to do in the winery. Winemaking is strictly a process of stewardship. That’s when you get the purest representation of what the vineyard wanted to give you.”
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Posted
by Adam Morganstern
on Mar 18, 2008
in Sonoma
Harry “Red” Coturri purchased the property which would become Coturri Winery in 1961. It has always been farmed using sustainable methods, and in 1991 the vineyards were certified organic by the CCOF. Starting 2004, conversion to biodynamics is underway.In 1979, Coturri Winery was officially bonded and since then had been handcrafting limited production wines in small batches on the slopes of Sonoma Mountain. This year they are celebrating their silver anniversary as the first winery in California to take organic farming and winemaking to the limit. From the start it has been Coturri’s mission to create wines that are as pure and natural as possible. They use only naturally occuring yeats, no chemicals or perservatives such as sulfites are added, no acid adjustment, no water, and they do not filter their wines – in fact there is only one ingreident in Coturri wines – grapes.The result is wines that are rich and extracted, darkly colored, and ripe and fruity. America’s foremost wine critic said this about Coturri, “One of the richest, most intense, well-balanced Zinfandels I have ever tasted… super rich pure examples of their varietals. They are too interesting and provocative not to recommend.” – Robert M Parker, Jr.
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Posted
by Adam Morganstern
on Mar 18, 2008
in Champagne
Here, where the Seine receives its first tributaries, are the limestone slopes of Southern Champagne called “Côte des Bar.” The Fleury family has been cultivating vineyards here for many generations.Emile, the grandfather, was the first to establish grafted Pinot noir in the area, after the invasion of phylloxera. His son Robert, as a pioneer in the Aube, released in 1929 his first bottles from his own harvest and aimed to produce a quality Champagne.Jean-Pierre wanted to be an astronomer. In 1962, he took on the family business, cultivating according to the chemical practices of the time. 1970 he discovered biodynamics, an alternative system of agriculture based on the alliance of he universe and the earth. He began ecological farming: mechanical weeding, organic contribution of manure. In 1989, the transition into biodynamics was done naturally, initially on a section, then on the whole estate in 1992. He thus became the biodynamically cultivating Champagne producer.The results could not wait. In 1993 Jean-Pierre was elected “winegrower of the year” by GaultMillau. Each year since, international recognition has been rewarded to some cuvées of the Champagne Fleury range : Silver medal at International Wine Challenge 2002 for Brut vintage 1996, Prix des Vinalies 2005 for Rosé brut, two stars “Coup de coeur” by Guide Hachette des Vins 2006 for Blanc de Blancs doux 1997.
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Posted
by Adam Morganstern
on Mar 18, 2008
in Champagne
Great-grandchild, grandchild and son of winegrowers, David Léclapart grew up with the rhythm of the vineyard and winemaking. After completing a non-winemaking curriculum, he graduated from the agro-biology school of Beaujeu and returned to his vineyard with the urge to learn, a passionate desire to work in harmony with nature and a vital need to respect life (from the vineyard to the glass). The biodynamic approach became his motto as he started to learn the hard work of winemaking. He experienced doubts and obstacles but remained focused on his mission. This farming philosophy enabled him to achieve and respect four principles: purity, energy, pleasure and ecology. Working his vineyard with biodynamic treatments gives it the opportunity to re-grow following the solar and natural forces, consequently offering you purity, energy and pleasure.David’s work in the cellars follows the same principles. He stays away from any enological technologies that would soil or harm the essence of his A.O.C. Only the combination of soil, climate, wine and workmanship stimulates his winegrower spirit. Today, David works on almost 3 hectares in monocru (Trépail, 1er cru); 90% of his vineyard is made of chardonnay grapes that are used to make his champagne and the rest is pinot noir grapes that David uses to make Coteau Champenois red or Champagne rosé from maceration.
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